Tuesday, October 21, 2008
The Future of the Blog
I do hope to add pictures to illustrate each chapter of the blog at some point in the near future so I invite you to check back again in a couple of weeks....Buen Camino de Vida, mis amigos!
Finisterre (The End of The Earth)
Wednesday, October 22, will be a travelling day on the bus to Santiago, where we board the train for Madrid and our departure, early the next morning, for home. It is our hope to see many friends in church on Sunday, but before we do, an explanation is required....
After 700 kilometers of sometimes treacherous adventure, it took a run to the bus and an uneven sidewalk to trip our beloved Linda. Down she went, face first, smashed into the pavement with the added weight of her backpack. A day in the hospital and excellent care has returned her to us in vibrant assortments of reds and purples. We have talked her into accompanying us to church on Sunday and have assured her you will be kind in your remarks and acceptance.
It has been the tradition for many pilgrims over the centuries to go on from Santiago to the remote ocean-fishing community of Finisterre, believed by the Celtic people to be the ¨end of the earth¨. Thanks to the autobus, we have been able to uphold this tradition, as well as the traditions of burning one´s clothes (I finally found something to do with the horrid $50 sportsbra!) and running naked into the sea - a kind of baptism into a new life.
I am very proud that I was able to complete the physical challenge of walking the entire Camino with my backpack and I am very proud that I did it my way.....every step in my hiking skirt. What the hell was I thinking?????.....I was thinking that I needed to put a little bit of heaven into my life. I am so grateful for such an amazing experience and such a fun group of chicas with whom to remember always, this incredible journey!
After 700 kilometers of sometimes treacherous adventure, it took a run to the bus and an uneven sidewalk to trip our beloved Linda. Down she went, face first, smashed into the pavement with the added weight of her backpack. A day in the hospital and excellent care has returned her to us in vibrant assortments of reds and purples. We have talked her into accompanying us to church on Sunday and have assured her you will be kind in your remarks and acceptance.
It has been the tradition for many pilgrims over the centuries to go on from Santiago to the remote ocean-fishing community of Finisterre, believed by the Celtic people to be the ¨end of the earth¨. Thanks to the autobus, we have been able to uphold this tradition, as well as the traditions of burning one´s clothes (I finally found something to do with the horrid $50 sportsbra!) and running naked into the sea - a kind of baptism into a new life.
I am very proud that I was able to complete the physical challenge of walking the entire Camino with my backpack and I am very proud that I did it my way.....every step in my hiking skirt. What the hell was I thinking?????.....I was thinking that I needed to put a little bit of heaven into my life. I am so grateful for such an amazing experience and such a fun group of chicas with whom to remember always, this incredible journey!
Monday, October 20, 2008
Arco do Pino to Santiago 18K ??? Day 31
YEAH!!!! We have arrived and are celebrating in Santiago......stay tuned....we are on a holiday for a few days!! Hasta Luego!!!!
This celebratory day of reaching the destination of our pilgrimage, the Cathedral of Santiago, I dedicate to my hero and life-mentor, my father, because of his strength of character, determination, unwavering work ethic, common sense, abundant capabilities, and his desire to always see a job through to completion (all admirable characteristics for any pilgrimage and especially the Camino of Life). I enjoyed walking with Dad this summer in preparation for this trip because it gave us alone time together...thanks Dad and I love you!
The community of the Camino has reminded me of the sense of community I was lucky enough to experience growing up on our family farm. It was so much fun working together on projects. Each person had their job all of which contributed to the final goal. I loved that team approach to life and the feeling of reaching the goal.
This last day of the Camino has been no less challenging than many of our other days, with many steep ascents and a never-ending walk in and through the city to our final destination. Coming around the last corner into the Cathedral Plaza, we chicas all linked hands and closed our eyes so that the first vision of the Cathedral of St. James could be shared simultaneously. Other pilgrims watched us and understood as we beheld one of the great European monuments from both an artistic and symbolic standpoint. This cathedral is considered the third most holy place in the world.
The highlight of Santiago was the Pilgrim Mass on Sunday with standing room only, its music, and the sense of welcome and significance we experienced as pilgrims from the priest. Celebrating eucharist together was like ¨the heavenly banquet prepared for us¨. Later, outside on the sunny steps by the fountain, the mass reunion of pilgrims from the past 30 plus days was not unlike a highschool graduation where everyone embraces, remembering all they have shared, and bids farewell as new lives begin.
In truth, I found the cathedral amazing and awesome, but in the end less significant than the power of the Camino itself. For me, the Divine presence was found on the Path in the most beautiful cathedral of all....our world. What a gift our Earth is to us and what a gift we are to each other. May we, as pilgrims, renew our efforts to respect and care for each other and our world. ¨The Kingdom of God is found among you.¨
This celebratory day of reaching the destination of our pilgrimage, the Cathedral of Santiago, I dedicate to my hero and life-mentor, my father, because of his strength of character, determination, unwavering work ethic, common sense, abundant capabilities, and his desire to always see a job through to completion (all admirable characteristics for any pilgrimage and especially the Camino of Life). I enjoyed walking with Dad this summer in preparation for this trip because it gave us alone time together...thanks Dad and I love you!
The community of the Camino has reminded me of the sense of community I was lucky enough to experience growing up on our family farm. It was so much fun working together on projects. Each person had their job all of which contributed to the final goal. I loved that team approach to life and the feeling of reaching the goal.
This last day of the Camino has been no less challenging than many of our other days, with many steep ascents and a never-ending walk in and through the city to our final destination. Coming around the last corner into the Cathedral Plaza, we chicas all linked hands and closed our eyes so that the first vision of the Cathedral of St. James could be shared simultaneously. Other pilgrims watched us and understood as we beheld one of the great European monuments from both an artistic and symbolic standpoint. This cathedral is considered the third most holy place in the world.
The highlight of Santiago was the Pilgrim Mass on Sunday with standing room only, its music, and the sense of welcome and significance we experienced as pilgrims from the priest. Celebrating eucharist together was like ¨the heavenly banquet prepared for us¨. Later, outside on the sunny steps by the fountain, the mass reunion of pilgrims from the past 30 plus days was not unlike a highschool graduation where everyone embraces, remembering all they have shared, and bids farewell as new lives begin.
In truth, I found the cathedral amazing and awesome, but in the end less significant than the power of the Camino itself. For me, the Divine presence was found on the Path in the most beautiful cathedral of all....our world. What a gift our Earth is to us and what a gift we are to each other. May we, as pilgrims, renew our efforts to respect and care for each other and our world. ¨The Kingdom of God is found among you.¨
Friday, October 17, 2008
Rabadisco de Baixo to Arca de Pino 22K Day 30
For the past two days I have been fighting this incredible urge to run all the way to Santiago. I have charged up ascents, marched on the flat, and felt invigorated, strong and confident about reaching the final goal of Santiago de Compostela. In fact one Frenchman said, ¨A demain!¨as I breezed by him. However, today is a different story....I have realized that this day is our last normal walking day and I want to savour everything: the aroma of the eucalyptus leaves as I rip them open; the carpet of fuzzy chestnut encasements that feel so soft under my boots; the crunch of the rich, brown chestnuts as I step on them; the beauty of the canopied path as it filters the light; the ancient moss-covered rock walls; the sing-song of the birds; the sounds of Elizabeth talking to the dogs, sheep, trees, stones, and chestnuts which has made my soul smile more than anything else on the trip; the embrace of Mother Earth as we walk between her dirt walls; and the sight of that line of chicas hiking with me.
As we approached Salceda today, we spotted this woman in an orange jacket frantically waving her hands and eventually we recognized Marilyn. We didn´t recognize her at first because she was so slim and trim! What a celebratory reunion we had - vino, a cornicopia of ´carne´grilled over an open fire, and shared stories. We are finally eating like the Spanish in the middle of the afternoon! Marilyn, under the direction of two doctors because of foot difficulties, was ordered to walk no more than 20K per day and to use the ´mochilas´taxi to transport her backpack each day. She has couragously been travelling on her own and with Camino friends she has met along the way. We are so happy to have you back with us, Marilyn!
There are all sorts of pilgrims along the Way right now and we had heard via
´The Camino Radio´ lol about this German Marching Crew and we had even spotted them, dressed in yellow coats and parading single file around a corner, pounding their hiking sticks in rhythm, footwork in tact. Shortly after lunch today, we stumbled across this comical group. Influenced slightly by the vino from lunch, Elizabeth and I quickly joined their ranks, the pounding of the hiking poles and marching footwork instantly mastered. Everything was running smoothly until we dubbed this group the seven dwarves and burst out singing ¨Hi Ho Hi Ho Off to Work We Go¨ in rhythm to the sticks, followed by a burst of giggles and another round of the song ¨Hi Ho Hi Ho We´re on the Camino We´re off to Santiago Hi Ho Hi Ho¨. Needless to say they were not all that impressed.
To finish today, I have a message for my daughter, Alyssa. Dearest Alyssa: I first heard about the Camino from you. You came home so excited about discovering the Camino and promptly told me you were walking it....I thought you were ABSOLUTELY CRAZY! Thank you for sharing your dream with me, thank you for letting me be a part of your dream, and thank you for all your help in making this dream a reality for me. I am so proud to have you as a daughter. I admire your strength, your determination, your sharp intellect, your amazing athletic and musical talent, and your ability to laugh. You surround yourself with an amazing group of friends who reflect who you are and that makes me proud as well. I have carried your chosen rocks all this way and I want you to know that tomorrow I will place them on the trail before I reach the summit where I will first view the Cathedral of St. James. I leave them there because the Camino is YOUR dream and YOU will be the pilgrim who picks up those rocks that I leave on this ancient path and YOU will be the one to carry them to Santiago. Buen Camino, my dear dear friend! Follow your dreams.
As we approached Salceda today, we spotted this woman in an orange jacket frantically waving her hands and eventually we recognized Marilyn. We didn´t recognize her at first because she was so slim and trim! What a celebratory reunion we had - vino, a cornicopia of ´carne´grilled over an open fire, and shared stories. We are finally eating like the Spanish in the middle of the afternoon! Marilyn, under the direction of two doctors because of foot difficulties, was ordered to walk no more than 20K per day and to use the ´mochilas´taxi to transport her backpack each day. She has couragously been travelling on her own and with Camino friends she has met along the way. We are so happy to have you back with us, Marilyn!
There are all sorts of pilgrims along the Way right now and we had heard via
´The Camino Radio´ lol about this German Marching Crew and we had even spotted them, dressed in yellow coats and parading single file around a corner, pounding their hiking sticks in rhythm, footwork in tact. Shortly after lunch today, we stumbled across this comical group. Influenced slightly by the vino from lunch, Elizabeth and I quickly joined their ranks, the pounding of the hiking poles and marching footwork instantly mastered. Everything was running smoothly until we dubbed this group the seven dwarves and burst out singing ¨Hi Ho Hi Ho Off to Work We Go¨ in rhythm to the sticks, followed by a burst of giggles and another round of the song ¨Hi Ho Hi Ho We´re on the Camino We´re off to Santiago Hi Ho Hi Ho¨. Needless to say they were not all that impressed.
To finish today, I have a message for my daughter, Alyssa. Dearest Alyssa: I first heard about the Camino from you. You came home so excited about discovering the Camino and promptly told me you were walking it....I thought you were ABSOLUTELY CRAZY! Thank you for sharing your dream with me, thank you for letting me be a part of your dream, and thank you for all your help in making this dream a reality for me. I am so proud to have you as a daughter. I admire your strength, your determination, your sharp intellect, your amazing athletic and musical talent, and your ability to laugh. You surround yourself with an amazing group of friends who reflect who you are and that makes me proud as well. I have carried your chosen rocks all this way and I want you to know that tomorrow I will place them on the trail before I reach the summit where I will first view the Cathedral of St. James. I leave them there because the Camino is YOUR dream and YOU will be the pilgrim who picks up those rocks that I leave on this ancient path and YOU will be the one to carry them to Santiago. Buen Camino, my dear dear friend! Follow your dreams.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Palai de Rei to Rabadiso de Baixo 26K Day 29
Well, much to our surprise, in Spain it does not only rain on the plain. We did start out under rainy conditions, but soon found this delightful albergue where we had our morning cafe con leche. This place was a little piece of heaven with its cozy atmosphere, delightful owner, great cafe con leche, fellow pilgrims that we knew and Ave Maria playing. Needless to say, we prolonged our visit just a little....
It was so much fun to walk in the rain and I was reminded of a time when I was in grade four at this one-room schoolhouse. It started teaming rain during the noonhour. All the other children went rushing into the school, but I had my raincoat on and persuaded my girlfriend, who was also dressed for rain, to stay outside and play on the swings. We came in at the appropriate time and I was dumbfounded as to why our teacher was so upset with us. Why was playing in the rain such a problem? I wonder to this day why we demand that children come in out of the rain. Why do we rob them of an opportunity to have so much fun? Well today I had permission to play, laugh, and sing in the rain and I LOVED IT! I even sloshed around in the mud and loved that! (Maybe I COULD be a rugby player, Geoff!)
The last 100K of our journey is very different as we now have a whole new set of pilgrims.....the tour groups and van supported groups. It´s challenging to accept all these new faces into the Camino Community and it´s hard not to have negative thoughts of their Camino as their backpacks are loaded into the vans, they don´t walk all that far during the day, and they still hobble around at night. But why should I think my way of walking the Camino is the right way? Each one needs to walk the Camino in their own way.
Therese sends special greetings to her grandchildren.....Amelie and Lea and Elizabeth joins in sending love to Andrea and Guillermo and now baby Allison and brand new grandniece.....Kenedi Marlene.
It was so much fun to walk in the rain and I was reminded of a time when I was in grade four at this one-room schoolhouse. It started teaming rain during the noonhour. All the other children went rushing into the school, but I had my raincoat on and persuaded my girlfriend, who was also dressed for rain, to stay outside and play on the swings. We came in at the appropriate time and I was dumbfounded as to why our teacher was so upset with us. Why was playing in the rain such a problem? I wonder to this day why we demand that children come in out of the rain. Why do we rob them of an opportunity to have so much fun? Well today I had permission to play, laugh, and sing in the rain and I LOVED IT! I even sloshed around in the mud and loved that! (Maybe I COULD be a rugby player, Geoff!)
The last 100K of our journey is very different as we now have a whole new set of pilgrims.....the tour groups and van supported groups. It´s challenging to accept all these new faces into the Camino Community and it´s hard not to have negative thoughts of their Camino as their backpacks are loaded into the vans, they don´t walk all that far during the day, and they still hobble around at night. But why should I think my way of walking the Camino is the right way? Each one needs to walk the Camino in their own way.
Therese sends special greetings to her grandchildren.....Amelie and Lea and Elizabeth joins in sending love to Andrea and Guillermo and now baby Allison and brand new grandniece.....Kenedi Marlene.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Sarria to Palas do Rei 47.5 K Day 27&28
When I sat down to write the blog last night, I was uninspired and thought that other than our celebration of reaching the last 100K marker (which was a lot of fun with our community circle ceremony), the day was really just blah, blah, blah, more of the same.
As we approach our ´home´destination of Santiago, I am starting to think of my home and ´visions of soaking in my hot tub dance in my head´! While roses line the Camino trail and at times actually seem to spring forth from the concrete itself, producing the most amazing blooms (which by the way I do stop and smell, trying to live in the moment, life on the Camino is not always a bed of roses. ¨Vamos¨.....here´s my one and only RANT!!
Firstly, there´s the ´Pilgrim Meal´. Do you know that they serve french fries with every one of the same six selections they offer from Pamplona to Santiago? Last night I actually escaped from the Pilgrim Menu and tried to get eggs; I had two choices: fried-egg pizza or an egg on my hamburger (I chose the later, which by the way was delicious.) I have now given up one Pilgrim Menu selection, Galician Soup, after Monica found what we believe to be a tooth in her last bowl! I have eaten enough Chorizo to give me a life-time supply of sodium nitrate and I am surprised I can still have a bowel movement at all after all the white, crusty bread I have eaten. HOWEVER the great feature of the Pilgrim Menu is the all-you-can-drink red wine, which has been my life-line because of problem number two........sleeping in the albergues.
Although now used to ´discreting´ stripping down in front of men of all ages (sometimes I do question the ¨O yes, we are all pilgrims philosophy¨), the real question is how does one discretly get out of those hiking sports bras that have no give whatsoever! I think my biggest risk of injury comes from trying to manouver in and out of this contraption without separating my shoulder! What the hell was I thinking.....I could have bought the UnderArmour one for the same price!
The chorus of snoring and coughing starts long before I´m asleep. Not to fear, I´m ready for this with my endless supply of earplugs. I figure if I throw enough on my bed, I´ll be able to grab one without really waking up in the night.....reminiscent of how I approached Geoff and his night-time soother problem! BUT the biggest fear of all is the bedbugs. Having brought the recommended -10 degree sleeping bag (What planet was that lady living on?), I cannot even zip it up which leaves me very vulnerable to the bedbugs! I only sleep on the top bunk because I am afraid the little creatures will drop on me from the mattress above if I sleep on the bottom. PRAISE BE for my orange silk pajamas and the silk liner Therese loaned me! She has yet to be bitten and she claims it is because she sleeps with her mouth open and eats the bugs for protein! So, to protect myself, I lie huddled in my cocoon of silk, afraid to stick a leg or hand out, and bathed in sweat from the down sleeping bag below me.....ladies, this makes hot flashes seem like a welcome relief! However, I think my best strategy for dealing with the bedbugs is sleeping close to Monica because they really like her!
Then there is the shower problem.....the sinking realization that I have now let the shower run for three minutes and all hopes of hot water have been dashed! I am still attempting to shave my legs and have to balance precariously (sorry I can´t get spell check to work) on one leg, in an exceptionally small space, and rake this horrid, hollow-handled razor across my leg, all the time trying not to touching the walls of the shower because I am sure they have some disease on them, which in turn reminds me that yes I forgot to get that Hepatitus booster shot after Guatemala!
I challenge Rick Mercer to beat this for a rant, but here is the real kicker folks! What would I change??.....not a single solitary thing....the laughs have been so worth it and the gratitude I feel for the simple things like hot water, toliet paper, and great cafe con leche is all-consuming when it happens.
Three more big walking days left.....I can feel the finish line and it feels exhilerating.....WALK CHICAS WALK!
As we approach our ´home´destination of Santiago, I am starting to think of my home and ´visions of soaking in my hot tub dance in my head´! While roses line the Camino trail and at times actually seem to spring forth from the concrete itself, producing the most amazing blooms (which by the way I do stop and smell, trying to live in the moment, life on the Camino is not always a bed of roses. ¨Vamos¨.....here´s my one and only RANT!!
Firstly, there´s the ´Pilgrim Meal´. Do you know that they serve french fries with every one of the same six selections they offer from Pamplona to Santiago? Last night I actually escaped from the Pilgrim Menu and tried to get eggs; I had two choices: fried-egg pizza or an egg on my hamburger (I chose the later, which by the way was delicious.) I have now given up one Pilgrim Menu selection, Galician Soup, after Monica found what we believe to be a tooth in her last bowl! I have eaten enough Chorizo to give me a life-time supply of sodium nitrate and I am surprised I can still have a bowel movement at all after all the white, crusty bread I have eaten. HOWEVER the great feature of the Pilgrim Menu is the all-you-can-drink red wine, which has been my life-line because of problem number two........sleeping in the albergues.
Although now used to ´discreting´ stripping down in front of men of all ages (sometimes I do question the ¨O yes, we are all pilgrims philosophy¨), the real question is how does one discretly get out of those hiking sports bras that have no give whatsoever! I think my biggest risk of injury comes from trying to manouver in and out of this contraption without separating my shoulder! What the hell was I thinking.....I could have bought the UnderArmour one for the same price!
The chorus of snoring and coughing starts long before I´m asleep. Not to fear, I´m ready for this with my endless supply of earplugs. I figure if I throw enough on my bed, I´ll be able to grab one without really waking up in the night.....reminiscent of how I approached Geoff and his night-time soother problem! BUT the biggest fear of all is the bedbugs. Having brought the recommended -10 degree sleeping bag (What planet was that lady living on?), I cannot even zip it up which leaves me very vulnerable to the bedbugs! I only sleep on the top bunk because I am afraid the little creatures will drop on me from the mattress above if I sleep on the bottom. PRAISE BE for my orange silk pajamas and the silk liner Therese loaned me! She has yet to be bitten and she claims it is because she sleeps with her mouth open and eats the bugs for protein! So, to protect myself, I lie huddled in my cocoon of silk, afraid to stick a leg or hand out, and bathed in sweat from the down sleeping bag below me.....ladies, this makes hot flashes seem like a welcome relief! However, I think my best strategy for dealing with the bedbugs is sleeping close to Monica because they really like her!
Then there is the shower problem.....the sinking realization that I have now let the shower run for three minutes and all hopes of hot water have been dashed! I am still attempting to shave my legs and have to balance precariously (sorry I can´t get spell check to work) on one leg, in an exceptionally small space, and rake this horrid, hollow-handled razor across my leg, all the time trying not to touching the walls of the shower because I am sure they have some disease on them, which in turn reminds me that yes I forgot to get that Hepatitus booster shot after Guatemala!
I challenge Rick Mercer to beat this for a rant, but here is the real kicker folks! What would I change??.....not a single solitary thing....the laughs have been so worth it and the gratitude I feel for the simple things like hot water, toliet paper, and great cafe con leche is all-consuming when it happens.
Three more big walking days left.....I can feel the finish line and it feels exhilerating.....WALK CHICAS WALK!
Monday, October 13, 2008
Tricastela to Sarria 25.5K Day 26
Life without a Camino Guidebook can be very interesting. In fact I have yet to meet another pilgrim who doesn´t have a guidebook....but these seven chicas don´t seem to need one! We trust our intuition; all of a sudden someone will say, ¨This doesn´t feel right¨ and off we go to find the right way. Surprisingly, we have never been lost yet.....until today. We didn´t choose the long scenic route, it chose us! But what a fantastic day we had. We walked through enchanted forests where I often expected a hobbit or a gnome to jump out and join our parade. The chestnut trees were so huge and knarled that they truly ressembled Tolkien´s Ents. Elizabeth calmly assured us that these silent sentinels would certainly talk.....if it was quiet enough. The stone walls were so old, they had grasses and moss growing all over them. Over the years, the world had grown up on both sides of the path, alllowing us to walk beneath the amazing root systems of these wonderful trees.
Celebrated Thanksgiving Monday by singing songs (our favourite one taught by Monica) and hymns over hill and vale. What an amazing Thanksgiving.....rustling leaves, enchanted forests, falling chestnuts and acorns, warm sun on our backs and thankful hearts.....but no turkey!
Celebrated Thanksgiving Monday by singing songs (our favourite one taught by Monica) and hymns over hill and vale. What an amazing Thanksgiving.....rustling leaves, enchanted forests, falling chestnuts and acorns, warm sun on our backs and thankful hearts.....but no turkey!
O Cebreiro to Triacastela 18.7K Day 25
Left this morning as the mist was rolling in, swirling around the little village. Spent the day descending through farmland with contented cows pasturing in the fields and wandering the roads while their bells chimed out a happy song and we dodged the ´meadow muffins´on our trail. Spent a good part of the day singing out a song that Elizabeth wrote with our input. It is to the tune of ¨Guide Me Oh Thou Great Jehovah¨.
On the road to Santiago,
Seven chicas with sore feet
Hope the ´Camino de Compestola´
Is a journey they´ll complete.
Over mountains, through the valleys
Sharing chocolate all the way,
Sipping cafe con leche.
Meeting friends from every nation
´Buen Camino´they all say.
Following the yellow arrows
To the next town´s albergue.
Mellow moments in the shower
Toasting vino to our team
Foot massage with Traumel cream.
Daily stones assault our arches
Vaseline helps rubbing toes.
Underneath our compeed bandaids
Blisters come and blisters go.
Picnics on the hot meseta
Give relief to aching shins.
¨Look, there go again the filming Finns.¨
Each must find her own Camino
Some more fast and some more slow.
Calling on the Holy Spirit
For the help that she may go.
Mother Earth so firm beneath us
Stars that beckon from the sky
Truth revealed as days go by.
Waking to the sounds of people´s beepers
Stuffing packs by headlamps bright.
Dusty boots begin their endless trekking
Hit the trail before daylight.
Conversations, meditations, laughing, singing everyday.
Peregrinas on the Way.
On the road to Santiago,
Seven chicas with sore feet
Hope the ´Camino de Compestola´
Is a journey they´ll complete.
Over mountains, through the valleys
Sharing chocolate all the way,
Sipping cafe con leche.
Meeting friends from every nation
´Buen Camino´they all say.
Following the yellow arrows
To the next town´s albergue.
Mellow moments in the shower
Toasting vino to our team
Foot massage with Traumel cream.
Daily stones assault our arches
Vaseline helps rubbing toes.
Underneath our compeed bandaids
Blisters come and blisters go.
Picnics on the hot meseta
Give relief to aching shins.
¨Look, there go again the filming Finns.¨
Each must find her own Camino
Some more fast and some more slow.
Calling on the Holy Spirit
For the help that she may go.
Mother Earth so firm beneath us
Stars that beckon from the sky
Truth revealed as days go by.
Waking to the sounds of people´s beepers
Stuffing packs by headlamps bright.
Dusty boots begin their endless trekking
Hit the trail before daylight.
Conversations, meditations, laughing, singing everyday.
Peregrinas on the Way.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Trabadelo to O Cebreiro 18K Day 24
According to all available sources, today was the most difficult climb of the Camino. We ascended 752 meters with relatively little problem. Every day I think the life can´t get any better than this, and then it does! Starting the climb today, I was blessed to be walking with Raquel, an amazingly strong and independent woman from Brazil. We had so much fun journeying up through the old medieval stone path that led through an ancient forest that has been travelled by so many pilgrims before us. When the chicas broke through the tree line, the view was breathtaking and as we got higher and higher the view got better and better. I know dad you have always told me to stay off the mountains and out of the valleys. You are very wise and I know you said that to save me from myself, but the Camino has inspired me to challenge this wisdom...what is life without the mountain-top experiences? And you have to experience the valleys to appreciate the mountain-tops.
Reaching Galicia was thrilling for all the chicas and we celebrated with photos. We are now on the last leg of our journey. I can´t believe how far we have walked. Have I reflected enough? Have I learned enough? One thing I do know is that I have laughed mucho with this fantastic group of women I am with.
We celebrated with a wonderful dinner by a fireplace with Galician soup and veal stew. We attended the pilgrim service at 8:00 p.m. giving thanks for all of you, who we miss this Canadian Thanksgiving.
Reaching Galicia was thrilling for all the chicas and we celebrated with photos. We are now on the last leg of our journey. I can´t believe how far we have walked. Have I reflected enough? Have I learned enough? One thing I do know is that I have laughed mucho with this fantastic group of women I am with.
We celebrated with a wonderful dinner by a fireplace with Galician soup and veal stew. We attended the pilgrim service at 8:00 p.m. giving thanks for all of you, who we miss this Canadian Thanksgiving.
Cacabelos to Trabadelo 19.1K Day 23
Did not sleep so well last night in the Albergue that reminded me of a CSI morgue, especially when the man on the other side of my bed board started pounding on it in the middle of the night. Elizabeth and I couldn´t decide if he was having anger management problems or if he was having a grand mal seizure, but after a few choice words from Elizabeth, everything quieted down.
We had the most glorious walk again today with mountain scenery, but the highlight was the wonderful sounds of the Rio Valcarce that lined our trail for most of the day. This babbling, energetic brook reminded me of Lucas and his enthusiastic, energetic personality. As we picniced on a wall by this river (with wine pulled out of Monica´s backpack) sharing the gift of laughter, I thought about how Lucas has brought the gift of laughter and fun to our family. Lucas, you were my Christmas gift from the heavens and my prayer for you is that you always use your gifts to enrich the lives of those around you and that you also learn to develop those deep pools of stillness and calm to sustain you.
Arriving finally at our Albergue, we plunked our bags down in front of a locked door to stake out our room for the night. Finally the hostess arrived and told us that the room was unavailable and that we could not be together. Frustrated and trying to orchestrate a way to room together, it took Enrique to remind us of a Camino lesson. He said that we were all pilgrims and it didn´t matter who slept where. How could we have forgotten the lesson of Camino Community so quickly?
We had the most glorious walk again today with mountain scenery, but the highlight was the wonderful sounds of the Rio Valcarce that lined our trail for most of the day. This babbling, energetic brook reminded me of Lucas and his enthusiastic, energetic personality. As we picniced on a wall by this river (with wine pulled out of Monica´s backpack) sharing the gift of laughter, I thought about how Lucas has brought the gift of laughter and fun to our family. Lucas, you were my Christmas gift from the heavens and my prayer for you is that you always use your gifts to enrich the lives of those around you and that you also learn to develop those deep pools of stillness and calm to sustain you.
Arriving finally at our Albergue, we plunked our bags down in front of a locked door to stake out our room for the night. Finally the hostess arrived and told us that the room was unavailable and that we could not be together. Frustrated and trying to orchestrate a way to room together, it took Enrique to remind us of a Camino lesson. He said that we were all pilgrims and it didn´t matter who slept where. How could we have forgotten the lesson of Camino Community so quickly?
Riego de Ambrose to Cacabelos 27.1 K Day 22
Started out this morning under the stars once again. I loved the sensual, aromatic adventure of today; the smells were absolutely exquisite. Apparently it was rock rose, but burying our noses in every available plant could not produce the source of this evasive plant that gave off this elusive fragrance. When it wasn´t the rock rose, it was the smell of dill. I would grab a handful of the seeds, rub them into my hands and breathe in the delicious flavour. In the absence of these two smells, there was the rich, deep, pungent smell of the damp earth.
It was a little scary descending the steep, rocky path by headlamp, but when day broke, the views along the medieval road through the mountains were stunning. We were the only peregrinas on the trail which made this journey very special. I kept telling Elizabeth that we needed a poet, because my words could never capture this beauty.
Living in the moment, we grabbed the opportunity to explore what seemed like a winery. We watched the farmers bringing in their little trailers filled with grapes and wandered around taking photos trying to capture the moment. One farmer was very kind and gave us all a sampling of his harvest and these were the sweetest grapes we had ever tasted.
When we arrived in Ponferrado, we saw and toured the most stunning castle, The Knights Templar Castle build in 1185. After, we relaxed in the plaza with our cervecas when this interesting scene started to unfold before our eyes. A woman beside us was attempting to back her car out of its parking space, but the oncoming traffic, her close proximity to the car beside her (with distressed woman in passenger seat), and total ineptness to know which to turn her wheels, was more than we could bear. Welcome three type A personalities to the rescue. Elizabeth jumped up and played traffic officer in the street, holding off impatient Spanish drivers while Kathy planted herself in front of the vehicle and wouldn´t let the lady chicken out, and Monica stood between the two parked cars to assure the driver that she did have room to manouver. Much to the surprise of the driver, she actually made her exit.
We finally pulled ourselves away from this lovely plaza and began our journey to a convenient albergue. Unfortunately, village after village refused to produce one. We wondered if the day would ever come to an end.
Luckily, the scenery for this last stretch was once again breathtaking with the red and greens of the grapevines, the brownish-reds of the soil, and the late afternoon sun casting a heavenly glow over the whole countryside. I was basking in this glory when Jose came up behind me and we started to chat. The stresses of running an architectural office had lead to some personal challenges in his life which had in turn had lead to depression. His psychologist had perscribed medication, but he had refused it saying he just needed to walk the Camino. Our time together was magical as we shared stories, laughed, and celebrated life and friendship. While ending our walk through this mystical forest, where the sunlight danced through the trees, I felt like I was walking through a portal into a new world and I was once again reminded of the healing powers of the Camino....pyschologial and physical.
It was a little scary descending the steep, rocky path by headlamp, but when day broke, the views along the medieval road through the mountains were stunning. We were the only peregrinas on the trail which made this journey very special. I kept telling Elizabeth that we needed a poet, because my words could never capture this beauty.
Living in the moment, we grabbed the opportunity to explore what seemed like a winery. We watched the farmers bringing in their little trailers filled with grapes and wandered around taking photos trying to capture the moment. One farmer was very kind and gave us all a sampling of his harvest and these were the sweetest grapes we had ever tasted.
When we arrived in Ponferrado, we saw and toured the most stunning castle, The Knights Templar Castle build in 1185. After, we relaxed in the plaza with our cervecas when this interesting scene started to unfold before our eyes. A woman beside us was attempting to back her car out of its parking space, but the oncoming traffic, her close proximity to the car beside her (with distressed woman in passenger seat), and total ineptness to know which to turn her wheels, was more than we could bear. Welcome three type A personalities to the rescue. Elizabeth jumped up and played traffic officer in the street, holding off impatient Spanish drivers while Kathy planted herself in front of the vehicle and wouldn´t let the lady chicken out, and Monica stood between the two parked cars to assure the driver that she did have room to manouver. Much to the surprise of the driver, she actually made her exit.
We finally pulled ourselves away from this lovely plaza and began our journey to a convenient albergue. Unfortunately, village after village refused to produce one. We wondered if the day would ever come to an end.
Luckily, the scenery for this last stretch was once again breathtaking with the red and greens of the grapevines, the brownish-reds of the soil, and the late afternoon sun casting a heavenly glow over the whole countryside. I was basking in this glory when Jose came up behind me and we started to chat. The stresses of running an architectural office had lead to some personal challenges in his life which had in turn had lead to depression. His psychologist had perscribed medication, but he had refused it saying he just needed to walk the Camino. Our time together was magical as we shared stories, laughed, and celebrated life and friendship. While ending our walk through this mystical forest, where the sunlight danced through the trees, I felt like I was walking through a portal into a new world and I was once again reminded of the healing powers of the Camino....pyschologial and physical.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Rabanol Del Camino to Riego de Ambros 20.4K Day 21
Said our tearful good byes to Judy and popped into a bar for coffee and lo and behold...there were the Finns with the cameras rolling...it was fun to see them again.
Hiked up 400 meters today and descended 600 meters...rather an up and down day! The vegetation was very tundra-like and the trail was rough and rocky. Because we were walking through clouds, it was cold, damp, and misty. Finally reached the summit of the Camino, Monto Irago at 1504 meters. Located here is the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) which rises out of a long wooden trunk planted in a huge mound of stones. The Romans called these cairns ´Mountains of Mercury¨in honour of the walker´s deity. Many pilgrims add stones continuing an age-old tradition. Everywhere were stones with messages, trinkets, and pictures of lost loved ones. We placed a stone in honour of seven women we know who died much too soon of cancer. We wrote: ¨In celebration of their lives lived with remarkable courage - Susan, Barb, Amy, Wilma, Carol, Nesta, and Pat¨. We are Seven Camino Chicas walking for our Seven Fallen Sisters and we felt their spiritual presence with us.
As we approached a simple refugio in Manjarin, a bell was rung in greeting by Tómas, a modern-day Knight Templar. The sun began to break through at points and the clouds lifted in order to reveal the incredible beauty of these lush, green hills/mountains. Stopped to picnic on some rocks, Monica producing cheese, bread, turkey, and jam. Tourists were actually pointing and taking our picture.....I felt a little like a mountain goat in the Rockies! Today we felt like Heidi in the Alps and found ourselves singing, ¨The Hills Are Alive¨. Once again no internet available.
Hiked up 400 meters today and descended 600 meters...rather an up and down day! The vegetation was very tundra-like and the trail was rough and rocky. Because we were walking through clouds, it was cold, damp, and misty. Finally reached the summit of the Camino, Monto Irago at 1504 meters. Located here is the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) which rises out of a long wooden trunk planted in a huge mound of stones. The Romans called these cairns ´Mountains of Mercury¨in honour of the walker´s deity. Many pilgrims add stones continuing an age-old tradition. Everywhere were stones with messages, trinkets, and pictures of lost loved ones. We placed a stone in honour of seven women we know who died much too soon of cancer. We wrote: ¨In celebration of their lives lived with remarkable courage - Susan, Barb, Amy, Wilma, Carol, Nesta, and Pat¨. We are Seven Camino Chicas walking for our Seven Fallen Sisters and we felt their spiritual presence with us.
As we approached a simple refugio in Manjarin, a bell was rung in greeting by Tómas, a modern-day Knight Templar. The sun began to break through at points and the clouds lifted in order to reveal the incredible beauty of these lush, green hills/mountains. Stopped to picnic on some rocks, Monica producing cheese, bread, turkey, and jam. Tourists were actually pointing and taking our picture.....I felt a little like a mountain goat in the Rockies! Today we felt like Heidi in the Alps and found ourselves singing, ¨The Hills Are Alive¨. Once again no internet available.
San Justo de la Vega to Rabanol del Camino 23.2K Day 20
Today was a much better day....I had a new strategy....just stop at every damn bar along the way! Had our morning cafe con leche in Astorga, which is a beautiful city. Stopped for lunch at this cozy little albergue where we all enjoyed soup. This was our first day of rain which turned out to be a rather tranquil experience. The best part was finally getting to use all the raingear we have been toting around.
As we went a little farther along, Linda spotted this ´Cowboy Bar´that actually looked like something out of Mexico! She thought it would be smart to warm up a little. The locals were all playing poker and the pilgrims were mostly huddled around this little fire so we just went directly up to the bar. We asked the bar tender to get down the bottle of Amaretto so that we could have shots. He shook his head as if to say we shouldn´t be having shots in the middle of the day, but managed to get it down from on high. The dust was about an inch thick and he blew it off and then had to get a cloth to wipe the bottle down. When he couldn´t get the lid off because it was crusted on, I started to get a little nervous and insisted on smelling the contents. He seemed a touch surprised at my boldness. Surprisingly, the liquor smelled good and he proceeded with great flair to bang down the shot glasses and we responded with much hooting and hollering! After downing the first shot, a German Peregina shouted, ¨Ah, schnaps!¨ and wanted to get in on the fun so we had an ´otro´round. At this point the bartender decided that he was going to walk the Camino with me and give the keys to his shop to one of the locals. Much to my surprise I agreed (I just couldn´t pass up the opportunity to have someone carry my knapsack!) At this point, Elizabeth sprung into action and said that my husband was ´mui grande´ and ´mui fuerte´. The bartender replied, ¨No problemo¨and pulled from behind the bar a giant machete which he began brandishing around. At this point we decided we had best leave the Cowboy Bar. We laughed for the rest of the day!
We then had an amazing walk through a pine and oak forest with the reddest soil I have ever seen. Once again there were kilometers of wire fencing covered with crosses made by pilgrims and again I could feel the energy rising up from the earth and the ancient stones embedded in the path.
Decided that we would take in the Gregorian Chants at the local church. Everything was great until right at the end. As the clerics turned to address the cross and we all stood up together, Elizabeth´s earplug fell out of her pocket and rolled right over beside the monk. The local parish women, who knew every Latin word of the whole service, were quite upset and trying to protect their dear monk...first raised their eyebrows at each other and pointed to the ´offending object´. Not knowing what it was, one brave soul took a hankie from her purse, walked over and plucked it from the floor. Elizabeth, with dramatic hand signs, opened her purse and pointed for the object to be transferred. With fingers in her ears, she said, ¨Por el albergue¨. The chicas giggled about this into the wee hours of the morning.
Had a very yummy pilgrim meal to celebrate our last night with Judy, who is going back home tomorrow. We were grateful for her reflection and will miss her so much!
As we went a little farther along, Linda spotted this ´Cowboy Bar´that actually looked like something out of Mexico! She thought it would be smart to warm up a little. The locals were all playing poker and the pilgrims were mostly huddled around this little fire so we just went directly up to the bar. We asked the bar tender to get down the bottle of Amaretto so that we could have shots. He shook his head as if to say we shouldn´t be having shots in the middle of the day, but managed to get it down from on high. The dust was about an inch thick and he blew it off and then had to get a cloth to wipe the bottle down. When he couldn´t get the lid off because it was crusted on, I started to get a little nervous and insisted on smelling the contents. He seemed a touch surprised at my boldness. Surprisingly, the liquor smelled good and he proceeded with great flair to bang down the shot glasses and we responded with much hooting and hollering! After downing the first shot, a German Peregina shouted, ¨Ah, schnaps!¨ and wanted to get in on the fun so we had an ´otro´round. At this point the bartender decided that he was going to walk the Camino with me and give the keys to his shop to one of the locals. Much to my surprise I agreed (I just couldn´t pass up the opportunity to have someone carry my knapsack!) At this point, Elizabeth sprung into action and said that my husband was ´mui grande´ and ´mui fuerte´. The bartender replied, ¨No problemo¨and pulled from behind the bar a giant machete which he began brandishing around. At this point we decided we had best leave the Cowboy Bar. We laughed for the rest of the day!
We then had an amazing walk through a pine and oak forest with the reddest soil I have ever seen. Once again there were kilometers of wire fencing covered with crosses made by pilgrims and again I could feel the energy rising up from the earth and the ancient stones embedded in the path.
Decided that we would take in the Gregorian Chants at the local church. Everything was great until right at the end. As the clerics turned to address the cross and we all stood up together, Elizabeth´s earplug fell out of her pocket and rolled right over beside the monk. The local parish women, who knew every Latin word of the whole service, were quite upset and trying to protect their dear monk...first raised their eyebrows at each other and pointed to the ´offending object´. Not knowing what it was, one brave soul took a hankie from her purse, walked over and plucked it from the floor. Elizabeth, with dramatic hand signs, opened her purse and pointed for the object to be transferred. With fingers in her ears, she said, ¨Por el albergue¨. The chicas giggled about this into the wee hours of the morning.
Had a very yummy pilgrim meal to celebrate our last night with Judy, who is going back home tomorrow. We were grateful for her reflection and will miss her so much!
Villar de Mazarife to San Justo de la Vega 25.5K Day 19
We were now in the foothills of Leon and it was so nice to be ascending and descending again (I can´t believe I am actually saying that!) As we entered Hospital de Orbigo, we crossed this impressive stone bridge which had 19 arches. It is famous because in the 15th Century, Don Suero de Quinones challenged all knights to win the love of his heart. Three hundred were defeated in a jousting tournament, but his beloved still refused him! This amazing feat is re-enacted annually and we had lunch at a little cafe overlooking this jousting field.
The rest of the day was difficult for me. I think I was too focused on the destination and worrying about walking in the heat instead of just putting one foot in front of the other. After we had finally reached our destination and I was having a grande cerveca on a patio, I saw the Portland Grannies, high on Coke and potato chips, bent over and just trudging right on by. I couldn´t believe it.....we had started out at the same destination that morning. Perhaps it was because last night´s mattress really ressembled a hammock more than a bed! I felt better when we passed them the next day!
The rest of the day was difficult for me. I think I was too focused on the destination and worrying about walking in the heat instead of just putting one foot in front of the other. After we had finally reached our destination and I was having a grande cerveca on a patio, I saw the Portland Grannies, high on Coke and potato chips, bent over and just trudging right on by. I couldn´t believe it.....we had started out at the same destination that morning. Perhaps it was because last night´s mattress really ressembled a hammock more than a bed! I felt better when we passed them the next day!
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Leon to Villar de Mazarife 21.5K Day 18
This was a day of new beginnings. We have left and survived the dreaded meseta. We bid farewell this morning to many of our friends along the Way. Many Europeans finish their two-week holidays in Leon, saving the final trip into Santiago for the next year. The Finns have been slated for a faster pace from here on in, including a 45K finish into Santiago.....we like them, but not THAT much!
Under Judy´s encouragement, we chose the longer route today that retreated from the noisy highway and wound through a number of lovely villages. As far as I was concerned, this route was worth every step! Entering into Virgen del Camino, we found ourselves in the midst of a ´Virgin´ fesitval (we´re talking about Mary here lol). The market stretched for blocks and we loved the breads, pastries, nuts of every size and variety, jewlery, clothes, and scarves that were so hard to pass by......in fact some of us didn´t!
I realized today how happy I was to be out of the hustle and bustle of the big city and back in the countryside, where one can look around and not see a building for miles nor hear anything except the twittering of birds, the wind rustling the grasses and the sound of plodding boots. I loved walking in solitude and just being.....enjoying the colours, sounds, and sensations. I felt such peace and contentment. It is such a blessed relief to have all the possessions I need in a pack on my back. Isn´t it ironic that we spend so much time and energy accumulating our stuff, managing our stuff, and finally purging our stuff, all the time believing that it´s our ´stuff´that will bring us security, peace and contentment?
Arrived at Tio Pepe´s Albergue in Mazarife. Felt like we were in a five star resort even though we were washing clothes by hand and basking in the sun on dubious lawn chairs, BUT we were chatting with friends, discussing challenging ideas, and reflecting together in our journals.
As I am typing this, Pepe is making delicious smells in the kitchen, an indication of a good meal about to be served.
Thanks to all our friends who taken the time to comment on the blog and encourage us. We really look forward to these comments and always try to respond personally :)
Under Judy´s encouragement, we chose the longer route today that retreated from the noisy highway and wound through a number of lovely villages. As far as I was concerned, this route was worth every step! Entering into Virgen del Camino, we found ourselves in the midst of a ´Virgin´ fesitval (we´re talking about Mary here lol). The market stretched for blocks and we loved the breads, pastries, nuts of every size and variety, jewlery, clothes, and scarves that were so hard to pass by......in fact some of us didn´t!
I realized today how happy I was to be out of the hustle and bustle of the big city and back in the countryside, where one can look around and not see a building for miles nor hear anything except the twittering of birds, the wind rustling the grasses and the sound of plodding boots. I loved walking in solitude and just being.....enjoying the colours, sounds, and sensations. I felt such peace and contentment. It is such a blessed relief to have all the possessions I need in a pack on my back. Isn´t it ironic that we spend so much time and energy accumulating our stuff, managing our stuff, and finally purging our stuff, all the time believing that it´s our ´stuff´that will bring us security, peace and contentment?
Arrived at Tio Pepe´s Albergue in Mazarife. Felt like we were in a five star resort even though we were washing clothes by hand and basking in the sun on dubious lawn chairs, BUT we were chatting with friends, discussing challenging ideas, and reflecting together in our journals.
As I am typing this, Pepe is making delicious smells in the kitchen, an indication of a good meal about to be served.
Thanks to all our friends who taken the time to comment on the blog and encourage us. We really look forward to these comments and always try to respond personally :)
Mansilla to Leon 18K Day 17
This is the day of reunion for the chicas! Monica and I left at 7:15, stopped for cafe con leche, arriving in Leon before noon. As we walked up to the Albergue in the old city, Linda and Therese were in the midst of checking in. Marilyn had already claimed her bed and was out enjoying the city. Elizabeth and Judy arrived shortly thereafter, having taken the bus from Mansilla after a morning walk to that town. We were quite taken with our monestary albergue and the habited nuns who helped us get settled. It was such fun to find so many of our camino friends already here.
Spent the day shopping for warm clothes for the oncoming snow in the Pyrenes; visiting the medieval fair celebration; sitting in cafes enjoying chocolate and churros (a delectable chocolate deep-fried donut affair recommended by Gail and Brian Harper, our Spanish teachers); listening to live music in the cobble-stone streets; and finally touring the famous Santa Maria de la Regla Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece with more than 100 stained-glass windows.
In the evening, we joined friends and enjoyed finding the Bario Humedo, an area of tangled little streets famed for their vino bars and free tapas. We sure found the locals out enjoying their Saturday night!
Spent the day shopping for warm clothes for the oncoming snow in the Pyrenes; visiting the medieval fair celebration; sitting in cafes enjoying chocolate and churros (a delectable chocolate deep-fried donut affair recommended by Gail and Brian Harper, our Spanish teachers); listening to live music in the cobble-stone streets; and finally touring the famous Santa Maria de la Regla Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece with more than 100 stained-glass windows.
In the evening, we joined friends and enjoyed finding the Bario Humedo, an area of tangled little streets famed for their vino bars and free tapas. We sure found the locals out enjoying their Saturday night!
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Bercianes to Mansilla 26.7K Day 16
Started out at 7:00 under the stars and it was freezing. I had to wear my yellow rain poncho to keep warm. Arrived in Mansilla at 1:30, so we made great time. My blister didn´t give me any pain whatsoever. YEAH Sat in the courtyard with lots of other pilgrims (they feel like family now)chasing the sun as it moved around the courtyard, drinking vino and having great conversations. The store owner even opened my bottle of wine in the shop and I carried it up the street...quite a common practice for pilgrims. Had an amazing pilgrim meal with our friends from San Francisco, France, Quebec, Holland, England, and of course....our Finish film crew.
Elizabeth and Judy spend the evening in Reliegos. They enjoyed a pilgrim meal and conversation with a Spanish couple. Marilyn spent the night in Sahagun where she found her water bottle that had been taken by mistake the day before. An example of the Camino Express. She spend the day biking around the village and stayed at an Albergue that was filled with antiques. Linda and Therese shopped at the medieval festival in Leon, bought fragrant bath salts, and soaked in a hot tub....it was wonderful!! They stayed at the Hotel Paris to celebrate the birthday of their friend from Denmark, who shared the room with them.
Elizabeth and Judy spend the evening in Reliegos. They enjoyed a pilgrim meal and conversation with a Spanish couple. Marilyn spent the night in Sahagun where she found her water bottle that had been taken by mistake the day before. An example of the Camino Express. She spend the day biking around the village and stayed at an Albergue that was filled with antiques. Linda and Therese shopped at the medieval festival in Leon, bought fragrant bath salts, and soaked in a hot tub....it was wonderful!! They stayed at the Hotel Paris to celebrate the birthday of their friend from Denmark, who shared the room with them.
San Nicholas to Bercianos del Real Camino 17.5K Day 15
I was anxious to hook up with the girls, so I got up early and waited outside the Albergue, asking everyone who came along if they had spotted the Canadian Chicas en route. Juho, the Finnish film star, assured me that the Canadian Chicas were alive and trekking down the road. It was perfect hiking temperature and the sun was gleaming on the golden wheat fields. However, that sense of gratitude and happiness was short-lived as I discovered that while the Spanish were great people to socialize with, they really knew squat about blisters and under their care, I had developed a blister underneath my original blister!! By the time we reached our destination, I could hardly hobble up to the Albergue and the hostess, sensing my distress, actually carried my boots for me. I was so grateful for that small gesture! The moment I placed my feet on the cold, ancient, stone floor, I felt some relief.....it was like having reflexology!
Spent the afternoon washing clothes and discussing home-care remedies for all the pilgrim problems. We have to be doctors for each other. I actually love the self-diagnosing and self-remedies we come up with. Burt, from Holland, seemed like the best bet for blister advice and I placed myself under his care! He immediately jumped into action....sterilized my needle with the matches from Linda´s tuck shop, lanced my blister, and applied (believe it or not) sportstape. This Albergue is attached to the local church and when I put my foot on the ground after the operation, I exclaimed, ¨It´s a miracle.....I´ve been healed!¨ At this point everyone burst into laughter, but in actual fact I had been healed and felt absolutely no pain.
Tomorrow Linda and Therese are going to take the bus to Leon to treat their Camino Colds (I personally think they´ve booked a spa). Elizabeth and Judy feel like they have put in their 40 days on the Meseta Desert and are combining walking with the bus. Monica and Kathy (who has experienced the blister-healing miracle) are continuing by foot....not wanting to miss any of this desolute countryside.
Marilyn has been plagued by blisters and foot problems and even started hitch-hiking at one point. Miraculously her feet started working before she got picked up. She is a real trooper. Everyone is going to reconnect in Leon.
Spent the afternoon washing clothes and discussing home-care remedies for all the pilgrim problems. We have to be doctors for each other. I actually love the self-diagnosing and self-remedies we come up with. Burt, from Holland, seemed like the best bet for blister advice and I placed myself under his care! He immediately jumped into action....sterilized my needle with the matches from Linda´s tuck shop, lanced my blister, and applied (believe it or not) sportstape. This Albergue is attached to the local church and when I put my foot on the ground after the operation, I exclaimed, ¨It´s a miracle.....I´ve been healed!¨ At this point everyone burst into laughter, but in actual fact I had been healed and felt absolutely no pain.
Tomorrow Linda and Therese are going to take the bus to Leon to treat their Camino Colds (I personally think they´ve booked a spa). Elizabeth and Judy feel like they have put in their 40 days on the Meseta Desert and are combining walking with the bus. Monica and Kathy (who has experienced the blister-healing miracle) are continuing by foot....not wanting to miss any of this desolute countryside.
Marilyn has been plagued by blisters and foot problems and even started hitch-hiking at one point. Miraculously her feet started working before she got picked up. She is a real trooper. Everyone is going to reconnect in Leon.
Carrion de los Condes to San Nicholas 32K Day 14
We started our day with an 19K walk with no cafe can leche or food places along the way. In order to pass the time, I hooked up with this Spanish marathon runner from San Sabestien, which I had long ago deemed the most romatic place on earth. It was really just to practise my Spanish lol In order to keep up with this guy, I had to increase my pace and in so doing lost my group of Canadian Chicas. As a result, I continued on with this Spanish guy and his group, but trying to understand so much Spanish was exhausting. Left the Spanish group at the Alburgue where we were supposed to spend the night only to find that ´there was no room at the inn´. I was very sad as it was sooo hot, I had already hiked so far, and had no idea where my friends were. Started racing for the next town as I was afraid there would be no beds there. Apparently my new-found Spanish friends had heard on the way that my Albergue was full and they included me in their reservations for not the next town, but the town after that! oh la la.....
I had such an amazing time sharing the evening with them. They celebrate friendship, food, wine, and life with such passion. They listen so attentively and when they speak to you, they touch your arm, caress your back and make eye contact that seems to be searching your soul. We were all exhausted because of the day and sat around giving each other foot and leg massages, and of course drinking vino! Again I marvelled at the sense of community, love, care and compassion on the Camino. My blister was quite a mess, and they had quite a discussion about how to treat it. They finally agreed to pour this red antiseptic all over it, dry it overnight and put on a compeed in the morning. Wait till you see the picture! At this point, I was ready to relinquish the care of my blister to someone else as my methods did not seem to be all that successful. I certainly hope the new treatment works! They felt that I should go on to Leon with them because they would be able to show me a better time in the big city, but I said they didn´t know how much fun the chicas from Canada were.
The rest of the gang made it to the Algergue that was full later in the day and luckily the owner offered them a place to sleep in the dining room. First, however, was a wonderful meal with four delightful Frenchmen who charmed all the chicas! Therese came alive in the midst of a bad cold as the official translator. Later they slept on mattresses on the floor and Linda and Monica said it was one of the best sleeps they have had.
I had such an amazing time sharing the evening with them. They celebrate friendship, food, wine, and life with such passion. They listen so attentively and when they speak to you, they touch your arm, caress your back and make eye contact that seems to be searching your soul. We were all exhausted because of the day and sat around giving each other foot and leg massages, and of course drinking vino! Again I marvelled at the sense of community, love, care and compassion on the Camino. My blister was quite a mess, and they had quite a discussion about how to treat it. They finally agreed to pour this red antiseptic all over it, dry it overnight and put on a compeed in the morning. Wait till you see the picture! At this point, I was ready to relinquish the care of my blister to someone else as my methods did not seem to be all that successful. I certainly hope the new treatment works! They felt that I should go on to Leon with them because they would be able to show me a better time in the big city, but I said they didn´t know how much fun the chicas from Canada were.
The rest of the gang made it to the Algergue that was full later in the day and luckily the owner offered them a place to sleep in the dining room. First, however, was a wonderful meal with four delightful Frenchmen who charmed all the chicas! Therese came alive in the midst of a bad cold as the official translator. Later they slept on mattresses on the floor and Linda and Monica said it was one of the best sleeps they have had.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Boadilla del Camino to Carrion de los Condes 25K Day Thirteen
Marilyn calls this place ¨Carrion of the Condors¨. We hope this is not a self-fulfilling prophecy. This morning we left by headlamps once again and it was so calm and peaceful under the stars, but mui frio! Our newly-purchased mitts from a delightful Tienda owner were much appreciated. We walked along the Canal de Castilla, which was constructed in the 1700´s for irrigation, transport, and grain milling. It was so serene with bullrushes lining the sides. I kept thinking I might discover Moses in a basket.
By lunch today, my knees were really hurting. Every day the questions are: Where will I feel pain? Where will the pain gravitate as the day wears on? Will I make it to my destination? It is amazing to me that my ankles can be hurting and 10K later, the pain will have diminished or that I can stumble into a village after 30K, barely able to put one foot in front of the other, and the next morning I will feel ready to go again. Perhaps the message is that life is never going to be without aches, pains, and troubles, but it is how we respond to these problems that makes the difference. We can choose to focus on the pain, feel it more intensely, and stop our journey OR we can slow our pace and continue on life´s journey, one foot in front of the other, until the pain moves on or diminishes.
Monica and I had a great walk with one of the Finnish film participants. In order to hear his story, I had to increase my pace and my knee got better. He had tried to do the Camino two years ago, but had to stop because of an injury. We were filmed walking with him....I think I am going to ask for a cut of the film profits. Crocodile Dundee, one of the other film participants, is presently out with the stomach flu. Oh these young studs!
We were reunited with Marilyn and Elizabeth in Villalcazar and celebrated with a bottle of vino and a picnic in the plaza. They surprised us with a special gift, purchased from the same Tienda man who sold us our mitts,....rubber boots to quiet the steel points on Judy and Therese´s trekking poles, that have annoyed all of us with their incessant clacking.
Upon our arrival this evening at our albergue, Judy led us once again in the ritual of Yoga stretches. Marilyn needs a belt, her pants now refusing to stay up with all her ´trimming and toning´. Way to go, Marilyn!
By lunch today, my knees were really hurting. Every day the questions are: Where will I feel pain? Where will the pain gravitate as the day wears on? Will I make it to my destination? It is amazing to me that my ankles can be hurting and 10K later, the pain will have diminished or that I can stumble into a village after 30K, barely able to put one foot in front of the other, and the next morning I will feel ready to go again. Perhaps the message is that life is never going to be without aches, pains, and troubles, but it is how we respond to these problems that makes the difference. We can choose to focus on the pain, feel it more intensely, and stop our journey OR we can slow our pace and continue on life´s journey, one foot in front of the other, until the pain moves on or diminishes.
Monica and I had a great walk with one of the Finnish film participants. In order to hear his story, I had to increase my pace and my knee got better. He had tried to do the Camino two years ago, but had to stop because of an injury. We were filmed walking with him....I think I am going to ask for a cut of the film profits. Crocodile Dundee, one of the other film participants, is presently out with the stomach flu. Oh these young studs!
We were reunited with Marilyn and Elizabeth in Villalcazar and celebrated with a bottle of vino and a picnic in the plaza. They surprised us with a special gift, purchased from the same Tienda man who sold us our mitts,....rubber boots to quiet the steel points on Judy and Therese´s trekking poles, that have annoyed all of us with their incessant clacking.
Upon our arrival this evening at our albergue, Judy led us once again in the ritual of Yoga stretches. Marilyn needs a belt, her pants now refusing to stay up with all her ´trimming and toning´. Way to go, Marilyn!
Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 29K Day Twelve
Left at 6:45 this morning using our headlamps for the first time on the road. The stars were so beautiful...Compostela means ¨field of stars¨ because of the direction the Camino takes under the Milky Way. Later that morning, we came across the ruins of the impressive Gothic Conventa de San Anton. The Finnish film crew were there filming...once again we encounter each other!
The meseta stretched out before us and I felt liberated. These plains are similar to our Canadian prairies except for these unusual table-top plateaus. The plateaus have been deforested and there is a lot of erosion, but thankfully efforts are being made to reforest these areas. I enjoyed the panoramic view of the endless golden fields of wheat. The beauty of the meseta ignited my connection to the sacred. A favourite quote came back to me from the book, The Colour Purple. ¨I think God gets pissed off when you walk by the colour purple and don´t notice.¨ In essence, live in the moment and appreciate life as it confronts you.
Next.....the mother of all ascents. Before we started climbing, we prepared ourselves by stripping down to our bare essentials, drinking lots of water and taking several deep breaths. After 3K of this imposing climb, we were rewarded with a spectacular view and free refreshments for all the peregrinos/as. We found out later that four days ago a 42-year-old pilgrim had died of a heart attack on this same climb.
Once again, the heat toward the end of the day was relentless, especially with no breeze...even the windmills were silent and still. Because we were so tired, we took the first available albergue being peddled in the street. Perhaps we should have known that we would soon be encountering difficulties. The person in charge was a macho chico desperately needing an attitude adjustment. With all his puffed-up authority, he told us we would be back on the street if we didn´t close the door after entering and if we didn´t clean up our mess in the kitchen. We all loved Judy´s fast response: ¨You know you are talking to a bunch of mothers!¨ Next came the cold-water showers and the toilets that wouldn´t flush!We had to go to another albergue for a pilgrim´s meal and were surprised when we entered to be identified immediately by the server as ´Canadians´. Apparently Judy and Linda are dead ringers for Canadians. I, on the other hand, was deemed asi asi in terms of my Canadianism. We sat at the table with the Finnish crew.....would you believe it?
After walking 20K on their own, Marilyn and Elizabeth hopped on a bus in Castrojeriz at the end of the day and travelled 16K to Fromista, just one community ahead of us. They were happy to spend this time with Sylvie and Helene, our new friends from Quebec.
The meseta stretched out before us and I felt liberated. These plains are similar to our Canadian prairies except for these unusual table-top plateaus. The plateaus have been deforested and there is a lot of erosion, but thankfully efforts are being made to reforest these areas. I enjoyed the panoramic view of the endless golden fields of wheat. The beauty of the meseta ignited my connection to the sacred. A favourite quote came back to me from the book, The Colour Purple. ¨I think God gets pissed off when you walk by the colour purple and don´t notice.¨ In essence, live in the moment and appreciate life as it confronts you.
Next.....the mother of all ascents. Before we started climbing, we prepared ourselves by stripping down to our bare essentials, drinking lots of water and taking several deep breaths. After 3K of this imposing climb, we were rewarded with a spectacular view and free refreshments for all the peregrinos/as. We found out later that four days ago a 42-year-old pilgrim had died of a heart attack on this same climb.
Once again, the heat toward the end of the day was relentless, especially with no breeze...even the windmills were silent and still. Because we were so tired, we took the first available albergue being peddled in the street. Perhaps we should have known that we would soon be encountering difficulties. The person in charge was a macho chico desperately needing an attitude adjustment. With all his puffed-up authority, he told us we would be back on the street if we didn´t close the door after entering and if we didn´t clean up our mess in the kitchen. We all loved Judy´s fast response: ¨You know you are talking to a bunch of mothers!¨ Next came the cold-water showers and the toilets that wouldn´t flush!We had to go to another albergue for a pilgrim´s meal and were surprised when we entered to be identified immediately by the server as ´Canadians´. Apparently Judy and Linda are dead ringers for Canadians. I, on the other hand, was deemed asi asi in terms of my Canadianism. We sat at the table with the Finnish crew.....would you believe it?
After walking 20K on their own, Marilyn and Elizabeth hopped on a bus in Castrojeriz at the end of the day and travelled 16K to Fromista, just one community ahead of us. They were happy to spend this time with Sylvie and Helene, our new friends from Quebec.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Burgos to Hontanas 31K Day Eleven
We didn't sleep all that well last night due to the riotous party in the streets and the apprehension of starting the meseta tomorrow. Many people are taking the bus from Burgos to Leon to avoid the meseta, but NOT US! Therese, femme extrordinaire, says others avoid the meseta due to laziness!
As we were leaving the city, we stumbled across this wonderful little bakery where we bought chocolate croissants that were just out of the oven....they were heavenly. We were excited to see the storks nesting in the church belfry as we went by. Elizabeth and Kathy got a little behind the others because we ran into a local man who kept showing us "otro monumento antiguedad". Every time we would try to escape, he would say, "Un momento" and we were too polite to say no. However, I did improve my Spanish in the process. One funny moment in this exchange came when this same man stepped on the toe of his dog. For the next ten minutes, the dog growled and barked at him....as if to say, ¨How could you be such an idiot!¨ Though we were far behind at this point, we had a lot to laugh about.
After 9.6K we stopped for cafe con leche and this beautiful little humming bird lit in the flowers beside us. I immediately felt Victoria's presence. Throughout the afternoon, I continued to feel Victoria presence in the yellow and purple butterflies that kept flitting about. Yellow, the colour of happiness and intelligence, reminded me of Victoria's bubbly personality and her great intelligence. Purple, the colour of lent, reminded me of the suffering that Martha, Ed, and Matthew have had to go through since Victoria's death. Martha, when I drove to your mom and dad's place after Victoria's death, and we embraced each other, I saw pain and sorrow in its rawest form. Your journey has been long and hard and I admire the strength and courage you have shown on your Camino, the hardest one of all.
The meseta is very taxing. The heat is almost unbearable and the slow ascent seems to go on forever. It is like Mexico without the cactus! A real no man's land. After a wonderful picnic just outside Hornillos, Marilyn and Elizabeth decided their feet had had enough for one day and stayed at a wonderful albergue in this town. For the rest of us, the last 10K were gruelling. Monica and Kathy picked up speed toward the end, a case of the primal instinct...the horse smelling the barn. We could see the heat rising from the ground and were actually seeing mirages before we finally arrived. Therese and Linda arrived a bit later to great cheering from the rest of us who were enjoying our cervacas! Linda said the only way she finished was by thinking of umbrella drinks and cabana boys. We are sleeping in a large dorm where we are greatly outnumbered by men. We decided that the only way to cope with the snoring would be to drink a lot of vino for dinner. That did the trick, although Linda and Kathy did have a little trouble getting up to the top bunk!
As we were leaving the city, we stumbled across this wonderful little bakery where we bought chocolate croissants that were just out of the oven....they were heavenly. We were excited to see the storks nesting in the church belfry as we went by. Elizabeth and Kathy got a little behind the others because we ran into a local man who kept showing us "otro monumento antiguedad". Every time we would try to escape, he would say, "Un momento" and we were too polite to say no. However, I did improve my Spanish in the process. One funny moment in this exchange came when this same man stepped on the toe of his dog. For the next ten minutes, the dog growled and barked at him....as if to say, ¨How could you be such an idiot!¨ Though we were far behind at this point, we had a lot to laugh about.
After 9.6K we stopped for cafe con leche and this beautiful little humming bird lit in the flowers beside us. I immediately felt Victoria's presence. Throughout the afternoon, I continued to feel Victoria presence in the yellow and purple butterflies that kept flitting about. Yellow, the colour of happiness and intelligence, reminded me of Victoria's bubbly personality and her great intelligence. Purple, the colour of lent, reminded me of the suffering that Martha, Ed, and Matthew have had to go through since Victoria's death. Martha, when I drove to your mom and dad's place after Victoria's death, and we embraced each other, I saw pain and sorrow in its rawest form. Your journey has been long and hard and I admire the strength and courage you have shown on your Camino, the hardest one of all.
The meseta is very taxing. The heat is almost unbearable and the slow ascent seems to go on forever. It is like Mexico without the cactus! A real no man's land. After a wonderful picnic just outside Hornillos, Marilyn and Elizabeth decided their feet had had enough for one day and stayed at a wonderful albergue in this town. For the rest of us, the last 10K were gruelling. Monica and Kathy picked up speed toward the end, a case of the primal instinct...the horse smelling the barn. We could see the heat rising from the ground and were actually seeing mirages before we finally arrived. Therese and Linda arrived a bit later to great cheering from the rest of us who were enjoying our cervacas! Linda said the only way she finished was by thinking of umbrella drinks and cabana boys. We are sleeping in a large dorm where we are greatly outnumbered by men. We decided that the only way to cope with the snoring would be to drink a lot of vino for dinner. That did the trick, although Linda and Kathy did have a little trouble getting up to the top bunk!
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Ages to Burgos 24K Day Ten
No big thoughts today except, ¨What the hell was I thinking?¨ Last night when we finally arrived at the Aubergue, I was fevered, sick and could only manage a geriatric shuffle where I didn´t have to lift my feet. I´m considering trading in my hiking poles for a walker. I thought I would have a shower to warm up, only to find that the water was absolutely frigid! Linda was our team angel and did our wash and dispensed drugs from her farmacia as needed. When it was time for the pilgrim meal, I had to wear my infamous orange silk pajamas, which I might add are keeping me from getting bed bug bites, as I had put all my clothes into the wash and I was too delirious to care. The aubergue was so full that Therese, Elizabeth and I had to eat at a bench facing a wall. I have now taken a full bottle of Cold FX, numerous Tylenol, and Elizabeth's homeopathic remedy that she squirts in my water....I hope it works because it tastes wretched!
We are now in Burgos and have enjoyed a sunny afternoon in the plaza chilling in chairs with cervezas. This event was followed by a musical tour of the city in a questionable vehicle, that gave off the odour of a motor overheating as it climbed the steep hill to a castle. We enjoyed the cathedral, the 13th century walls and statues, and Linda's wonderful sense of humour. Tonight was topped off by a descent into a marvelous tapas bar, where we drove the server 'loco' trying to taste every delectable dish before us.
We are now in Burgos and have enjoyed a sunny afternoon in the plaza chilling in chairs with cervezas. This event was followed by a musical tour of the city in a questionable vehicle, that gave off the odour of a motor overheating as it climbed the steep hill to a castle. We enjoyed the cathedral, the 13th century walls and statues, and Linda's wonderful sense of humour. Tonight was topped off by a descent into a marvelous tapas bar, where we drove the server 'loco' trying to taste every delectable dish before us.
Belorado to Ages 27.5K Day Nine
When I woke up this morning, I thought about how I have never felt so emotionally and physically spent in my life. There is so much love and concern from total strangers that I have a hard time taking it all in. In Canada we exercise our bodies, but do we exercise our emotional and spiritual bodies? I thought back to the time when Geoff was a toddler and he had just finished a very busy day at the cottage....fishing, swimming, playing in the woods, and building campfires. When Ted and I were tucking him in that night, Geoff uttered this sigh that I have never forgotten. I now recognize that sigh as a melding of body and soul and a total living in the moment. Geoff taught me lessons as a very young child and he continues to teach and astound me. Hats off to you Geoff for being someone who totally lives in the now. Sometimes I wonder why I was chosen to be your mother when you teach me so much.
As we were leaving the village, the church bells were sounding out the hour and I thought, ¨For whom doth the bell toll?¨ which reminded me of teaching and of course all those wonderful teachers at Keatsway. Ann, thanks for the angel and I carry her on my knapsack. I also have the Keatsway clip and the class hug paper that my students gave me. How is that Little-Shortt class doing? Jason, I have been like a little kid today picking rocks, trying to find the perfect one to bring back to you.
The sense of community on the Camino is so strong and I thought about the TRIBES program Keatsway is implementing. The sharing of self through the inclusive activities, mutual respect for others, attentive listening....reaching at last to a classroom and school community. That is the CAMINO. How sad that as teachers we have become so concerned with curriculum that we have forgotten how important it is to help kids develop the social skills they need to find happiness in life. Personally I think the demise all started with Mike Harris! lol
As we were leaving the village, the church bells were sounding out the hour and I thought, ¨For whom doth the bell toll?¨ which reminded me of teaching and of course all those wonderful teachers at Keatsway. Ann, thanks for the angel and I carry her on my knapsack. I also have the Keatsway clip and the class hug paper that my students gave me. How is that Little-Shortt class doing? Jason, I have been like a little kid today picking rocks, trying to find the perfect one to bring back to you.
The sense of community on the Camino is so strong and I thought about the TRIBES program Keatsway is implementing. The sharing of self through the inclusive activities, mutual respect for others, attentive listening....reaching at last to a classroom and school community. That is the CAMINO. How sad that as teachers we have become so concerned with curriculum that we have forgotten how important it is to help kids develop the social skills they need to find happiness in life. Personally I think the demise all started with Mike Harris! lol
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Santo Domingo to Belorado 23.5 K Day Eight
Left about 7:30 and saw the most beautiful sunrise. As we entered the region of Castilla y Leon, the trail wound through valleys surrounded by hills and high tablelands. This was agricultural land and I was reminded of the bounty of Mother Earth, our life-giver, and decided that today I would honour my mother, my life-giver. We passed many workers out gathering potatoes and I remembered how potatoes were a staple of our diet on the farm. Mom, you loving prepared those potatoes in so many ways and we had so many great times around that farm table. Mom, there is no one more loving and giving than you. I admire your determination to seek what you want from life and I thank you for passing your desire for adventure on to me. Because of your generation and situation in life, you are not able to walk the Camino. Mom, I carry you in my blood and I walk the Camino for you. My strength cometh from Gaia, Mother Earth, from whom all things come. I walk in praise of my mother and all mothers, our life-givers.
Monica and Marilyn picked out a great Aubergue and it was hosted by Agnes and Peter who are the Camino personified. They have already walked the Camino from their house in Switzerland and are now walking back from Santiago. They are in their seventies and they welcomed us with open arms. The aubergue is attached to the village church and it was previously a theatre. The stage is now a kitchen and when Agnes explained that it was still a stage for preparing the theatre of food, everyone decided that we would prepare a community meal. Martin from Switzerland made Swiss Alps Pasta which included potatoes from the garden. As Agnes says, ¨La vie est dur sans confiture; elle est amere sans pommes de terre.¨ What a fabulous time we had preparing food, eating together at the long communal table, toasting with vino, and doing dishes. We then rushed out for the community mass and I really enjoyed sharing the peace with everyone. After mass, the priest took us to a side chapel where he delivered the Pilgrims´ Blessing. This church has been blessing pilgrims since the 800s. The blessing was read in French, Italian, German, Spanish, and English. I was selected to be the English reader and I felt honoured to be a part of such history. We ended this experience with a hymn that Judy brought for such an occasion. As the song came to an end, we heard the ethereal voice of Camino Peter singing a familiar ´hallejah chant´. We sang our way out of the church and into our beds next door, both physically and emotionally spent.
Monica and Marilyn picked out a great Aubergue and it was hosted by Agnes and Peter who are the Camino personified. They have already walked the Camino from their house in Switzerland and are now walking back from Santiago. They are in their seventies and they welcomed us with open arms. The aubergue is attached to the village church and it was previously a theatre. The stage is now a kitchen and when Agnes explained that it was still a stage for preparing the theatre of food, everyone decided that we would prepare a community meal. Martin from Switzerland made Swiss Alps Pasta which included potatoes from the garden. As Agnes says, ¨La vie est dur sans confiture; elle est amere sans pommes de terre.¨ What a fabulous time we had preparing food, eating together at the long communal table, toasting with vino, and doing dishes. We then rushed out for the community mass and I really enjoyed sharing the peace with everyone. After mass, the priest took us to a side chapel where he delivered the Pilgrims´ Blessing. This church has been blessing pilgrims since the 800s. The blessing was read in French, Italian, German, Spanish, and English. I was selected to be the English reader and I felt honoured to be a part of such history. We ended this experience with a hymn that Judy brought for such an occasion. As the song came to an end, we heard the ethereal voice of Camino Peter singing a familiar ´hallejah chant´. We sang our way out of the church and into our beds next door, both physically and emotionally spent.
Ventosa to Santo Domingo 31K Day Seven
The pilgrim alters today were pillars and as I stood in front of that first piller of rock, with a goal of 31K in front of me, I knew that this day belonged to Ted. Ted, you are such a pillar of strength, stability, and love for me and our family. You plan, you dream, and you set goals. I am blessed to be at your side. I admire your amazing ability to manage me and our relationship. You keep me grounded, but you allow me to fly without ever trying to clip my wings. Thank you for letting me soar and thank you for keeping my feet firmly planted on the trail.
Left at 7:06 this morning and trekked 10K for our cafe con leche. It was soooo good. Judy and I even treated ourselves to chocolate-filled croissants.....we figured we could handle the calories on a 31K hike!
Stopped in the next town to pick up some lunch items and hiked another hour before stopping for our picnic in a farmer´s freshly-harvested field. What a great picnic we had of pate, bread, cheese, chocolate and apples. We only had 13K to go, but the sun was hot and we were getting tired. Today I welcomed the ascents as my shin splints didn´t hurt when I was going uphill. Onward we trudged and when Monica and I crested the hill to see Santo Domingo, we joined hands and jumped for joy. However the descent was long. Terese and Elizabeth experienced the same joy an hour later as they brought up the rear. By the time they arrived at the edge of the city, the two of them were in hysterics. Their walking sticks had become canes and they were limping like ¨two crippled gereatrics trying to make it to the nursing home singsong¨(their words). The first refugio was filled to capacity, but luckily the second one had room. I slept in a room with 36 pilgrims, on a top bunk which as usual had no railing on either side, and I slept like a baby. I have never felt so physically exhausted in all my life and that combined with the laughter and comraderie of the pilgrim meal was a wonderful feeling. We have left many of our pilgrim community behind and are gathering others into our fold. Silvie from Quebec has joined us as well as another French group from France. I so love speaking French to so many people. Martin from Germany has been a delight.
Left at 7:06 this morning and trekked 10K for our cafe con leche. It was soooo good. Judy and I even treated ourselves to chocolate-filled croissants.....we figured we could handle the calories on a 31K hike!
Stopped in the next town to pick up some lunch items and hiked another hour before stopping for our picnic in a farmer´s freshly-harvested field. What a great picnic we had of pate, bread, cheese, chocolate and apples. We only had 13K to go, but the sun was hot and we were getting tired. Today I welcomed the ascents as my shin splints didn´t hurt when I was going uphill. Onward we trudged and when Monica and I crested the hill to see Santo Domingo, we joined hands and jumped for joy. However the descent was long. Terese and Elizabeth experienced the same joy an hour later as they brought up the rear. By the time they arrived at the edge of the city, the two of them were in hysterics. Their walking sticks had become canes and they were limping like ¨two crippled gereatrics trying to make it to the nursing home singsong¨(their words). The first refugio was filled to capacity, but luckily the second one had room. I slept in a room with 36 pilgrims, on a top bunk which as usual had no railing on either side, and I slept like a baby. I have never felt so physically exhausted in all my life and that combined with the laughter and comraderie of the pilgrim meal was a wonderful feeling. We have left many of our pilgrim community behind and are gathering others into our fold. Silvie from Quebec has joined us as well as another French group from France. I so love speaking French to so many people. Martin from Germany has been a delight.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Logrono to Ventosa 20K Day Six
While following the Camino trail today, we came upon a wire fence lining the path. This fence was covered with crosses that pilgrims had created out of sticks, grape vine, and grasses. At some points you could barely see the wire fence for crosses. The mural of crosses went on for over a kilometer and I was brought to tears. My mantra everyday had been, ¨My body is a temple¨ and I had repeated this mantra at every pilgrim alter along the Camino. I had felt that my strength for the Camino would come from within myself and that if I took care of my body, I would eventually arrive in Santiago. However, last night I was humbled by the numbers of young, athletic people injured, sick, and barely hanging on at this early stage of the Camino.
While walking along the trail of crosses, I felt the first melding of body and soul. I realized that as my body accumulated the mileage of the pilgimage, my strength was not going to just come from my body and my strength of will. As I walked that trail of crosses, I could feel an energy coming from the ancient earth under my feet and I could feel the presence of the millions of pilgrims who had walked the path before me. I could feel their stength and the strength of the fraternity of pilgrims walking the path with me right now. The crosses on that wire fence symbolized, for me, hope for the future, faith in a greater being, and love for our fellow human beings (past, present, and future)and I struck a new rhythm of walking. One does not walk the Camino, the Camino walks you.
We are pilgrims on a journey,
Fellow travellers on the road,
We are here to help each other,
Walk the mile and share the load.
While walking along the trail of crosses, I felt the first melding of body and soul. I realized that as my body accumulated the mileage of the pilgimage, my strength was not going to just come from my body and my strength of will. As I walked that trail of crosses, I could feel an energy coming from the ancient earth under my feet and I could feel the presence of the millions of pilgrims who had walked the path before me. I could feel their stength and the strength of the fraternity of pilgrims walking the path with me right now. The crosses on that wire fence symbolized, for me, hope for the future, faith in a greater being, and love for our fellow human beings (past, present, and future)and I struck a new rhythm of walking. One does not walk the Camino, the Camino walks you.
We are pilgrims on a journey,
Fellow travellers on the road,
We are here to help each other,
Walk the mile and share the load.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Torros del Rio to Logrono 20K Day Five
We left shortly after 7:30 with muffins and oranges to fortify the Camino Chicas! For the first hour we walked in silence. It was so peaceful and relaxing - the sleepy countryside, the sound of the hiking poles tapp¡ng out the rhythm of each individual hiker and the sound our footsteps plodding onwards towards Santiago. The descent today was called Barranco Mataburras (Donkey Killing Ditch) and it lived up to its name! On the ascent we were surprised by the presence of a Finnnish film crew who were creating a documentary on the Camino. I guess we are movie stars now and hope to make the preview in Finland in January. lol
Finally arrived in Vianna for our morning cafe con leche, where the locals were the servers priorities! Got our pilgrim passports stamped at Iglesia Santa Maria de Vianna. The temperature has changed and we had fun bringing out parts of our trekking wardrobe formerly unused. Many of our international trail friends enjoyed the atmosphere with us in this pictoresque town. We are happy to report that the image of Canadians as ¨boring¨ has been successfully overturned!!
Later that afternoon, Elizabeth threw the first Camino Chica Conniption when lunch was ignored by those in the lead. Madly marching up the steep ascent to the front line, she called everyone to an abrupt halt under an almond tree. Enjoyed crackers with salmon pate, yogurt, chocolate wafers, and more chocolate. (Everyone is now happily back on track.)
Much like Jesus entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, we entered the thriving metropolis of Logrono to the sound of Spanish marching bands playing in the streets. Much to our pleasure, we had stumbled into the midst of a local wine festival YEAH! Later this evening, when the Spanish were just getting started, we joined the throngs of happy families enjoying street entertainers. Dinner tonight consisted of tapas and vino and the chicas had to drag Elizabeth and Kathy home to bed to get ready for tomorrow´s Camino walk where the terrain is going to be extra challenging. Buenas nochas mis amigos!!
Finally arrived in Vianna for our morning cafe con leche, where the locals were the servers priorities! Got our pilgrim passports stamped at Iglesia Santa Maria de Vianna. The temperature has changed and we had fun bringing out parts of our trekking wardrobe formerly unused. Many of our international trail friends enjoyed the atmosphere with us in this pictoresque town. We are happy to report that the image of Canadians as ¨boring¨ has been successfully overturned!!
Later that afternoon, Elizabeth threw the first Camino Chica Conniption when lunch was ignored by those in the lead. Madly marching up the steep ascent to the front line, she called everyone to an abrupt halt under an almond tree. Enjoyed crackers with salmon pate, yogurt, chocolate wafers, and more chocolate. (Everyone is now happily back on track.)
Much like Jesus entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, we entered the thriving metropolis of Logrono to the sound of Spanish marching bands playing in the streets. Much to our pleasure, we had stumbled into the midst of a local wine festival YEAH! Later this evening, when the Spanish were just getting started, we joined the throngs of happy families enjoying street entertainers. Dinner tonight consisted of tapas and vino and the chicas had to drag Elizabeth and Kathy home to bed to get ready for tomorrow´s Camino walk where the terrain is going to be extra challenging. Buenas nochas mis amigos!!
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Montjardin to Torres del Rios 20 K Day Four
The lights went on at 6:30 a.m. for everyone. After bathrooms and breakfast provided, we were ready to come down off our mountain at 7:40. The sun peeked over the mountains and illuminated the fields with gold. Elizabeth and Terese, our oldest members. led the way for the first time. By lunchtime, we reached Los Arcos, a magical city. Doors were ancient and it was fun to peek into places on small Spanish lanes. We found a tiny store with officious woman who allowed no ´touchy-feely´ with the fuit. We all bought sardines and apples for lunch which we later shared together under an olive tree.
Rose, a US national rugby team player, is now part of our pilgrim community. She has injured her acquilles tendon and is humbled by the physical challenge that the Camino offers. See Geoff the Rugby players aren´t the be all and the end all!
Came at last, in over 90 degree temperatures, to what we thought was our final destination.....but it wasn´t. We progressed down a big hill to a second town with another big hill to climb to Torres del Rios, and the Albergue called Casa Mari. Collapsed with our legs against the wall in a semi-stretching on rooftop mode. Afterwhich we enjoyed a homecooked meal from supplies purchased at a small tienda de comestibles.
Rose, a US national rugby team player, is now part of our pilgrim community. She has injured her acquilles tendon and is humbled by the physical challenge that the Camino offers. See Geoff the Rugby players aren´t the be all and the end all!
Came at last, in over 90 degree temperatures, to what we thought was our final destination.....but it wasn´t. We progressed down a big hill to a second town with another big hill to climb to Torres del Rios, and the Albergue called Casa Mari. Collapsed with our legs against the wall in a semi-stretching on rooftop mode. Afterwhich we enjoyed a homecooked meal from supplies purchased at a small tienda de comestibles.
Lorca to Monjardin 16K Day Three
Today we celebrated Monica´s birthday and we decided there was no better way to celebrate. We picniced under olive trees and toasted with many pilgrims from many countries at our pilgrim dinner.
Part of our group slept in today and had to really hurry to get out. We made it in 40 minutes which is much faster than yesterday. I am amazed at how long it takes to pack a knapsack in the morning. The cafe con leche is amazing here (I think that is because I have to walk over an hour to get it in the morning.) Today we had breakfast in Estella. Soon after Estella we stumbled upon a public fountain of not just water but wine. This fountain was established by a local wine family and they provide wine for all the pilgrims. Elizabeth led us in a communion service along with people from Switzerland, Spain, New Zealand, United States and France. We filled our water jugs with wine and continued on our way.
We were nervous about reaching our destination for this evening because of the steep ascent and the limited sleeping accommodations available. With the next auberge located another 16 K away it was essential that we find a place to sleep. All the other pilgrims were trying to get there ahead of the group of 7 Canadians!!
We did make it and found a room which had 13 mattresses on the floor and were very grateful for a place to sleep. I am so glad I brought earplugs!! Tom the refugios were exactly what I thought OH LA LA!
Ann from the US gave me a counselling session on simplicity and purging my knapsack. Apparently I have the heaviest bag and have to learn to let go. However the fear of getting sick and having injuries is too great for me to give up my meds. However I did purge some items and gave them as a gift to the Refugio. Haven´t parted with my mascara yet though!!
I will post pictures when I get to a computer with a USB port.
Part of our group slept in today and had to really hurry to get out. We made it in 40 minutes which is much faster than yesterday. I am amazed at how long it takes to pack a knapsack in the morning. The cafe con leche is amazing here (I think that is because I have to walk over an hour to get it in the morning.) Today we had breakfast in Estella. Soon after Estella we stumbled upon a public fountain of not just water but wine. This fountain was established by a local wine family and they provide wine for all the pilgrims. Elizabeth led us in a communion service along with people from Switzerland, Spain, New Zealand, United States and France. We filled our water jugs with wine and continued on our way.
We were nervous about reaching our destination for this evening because of the steep ascent and the limited sleeping accommodations available. With the next auberge located another 16 K away it was essential that we find a place to sleep. All the other pilgrims were trying to get there ahead of the group of 7 Canadians!!
We did make it and found a room which had 13 mattresses on the floor and were very grateful for a place to sleep. I am so glad I brought earplugs!! Tom the refugios were exactly what I thought OH LA LA!
Ann from the US gave me a counselling session on simplicity and purging my knapsack. Apparently I have the heaviest bag and have to learn to let go. However the fear of getting sick and having injuries is too great for me to give up my meds. However I did purge some items and gave them as a gift to the Refugio. Haven´t parted with my mascara yet though!!
I will post pictures when I get to a computer with a USB port.
Utega to Lorca 23 K Day Two
The countryside countinues to be absolutely breathtaking. Today we walked through tranquil hill towns, vineyard after vineyard, and fields of wheat and fruit trees. We ate blackberries along the side of the road and enjoyed the 2000 year old Roman road and bridge that we came across. The terrain continues to be very steep and challenging and we did not get as far as we wanted today. Along the Camino there are little prayer altars where pilgrims deposit stones and I stop at each one to gain strength....One foot in front of the other. That works along with the beer and wine! I am enjoying the comraderie of our group as well as the comraderie of the other pilgrims. Each night we partake of a pilgrim meal which is prepared at the Auberge. We all eat at one big table and have so much fun.
Pamplona to Utergia (17K) Day One
Well our group got separated from each other before we even got started on the Camino. However there was great rejoicing when we came together on the trail! The countryside is beautiful - fields of wheat and sunflowers with windmills spinning. The terrain is much more rugged than I had imagined and there was a very pronounced ascent today which was a challenge for all of us. However at the top there was an iron sculpture depicting medieval pilgrims. We welcomed the refreshing breeze and the sprinkling of rain on the descent was most welcome.
Mark and Miriam - a big thank you for the poles. I would have been lying turtle in a ditch somewhere without them. We have established a community of pilgrims that are walking at the same pace and we eat and sleep together. We also help and look out for each other which is so great. I am speaking lots of French and a little Spanish. I have a blister the size of Mount Everest, but am walking through it. It is a small problem compared to a lot of others on the Camino. The temperature is very hot and we try to start our walks early in the morning.
Mark and Miriam - a big thank you for the poles. I would have been lying turtle in a ditch somewhere without them. We have established a community of pilgrims that are walking at the same pace and we eat and sleep together. We also help and look out for each other which is so great. I am speaking lots of French and a little Spanish. I have a blister the size of Mount Everest, but am walking through it. It is a small problem compared to a lot of others on the Camino. The temperature is very hot and we try to start our walks early in the morning.
Blisters!
Have been a little lax about posting on the blog because I have been nursing my blisters with beer and wine! This Camino is not a WALK IN THE PARK!! Our flight to Madrid was very smooth and we even had time to tour Madrid with a Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour. Reminded me of our New York trip Alyssa, Annabel, and Sara. In fact I was very tempted to see if I could do a Hop Off Hop On tour of the Camino. lol We later took the train to Pamplona and had a lot of fun touring that town. Had tapas and beer and toured all the wonderful little streets including the Running of the Bulls Street. After four hours of walking, we finally called it a night.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Parkminster Blessing
1Life-giving God, we give you praise for the desire for a deeper relationship that you have placed in each one of these individuals...- We thank you for the vision that has inspired these journeys...
- We praise you for families and friends that have worked to make these things possible...and for all of those who have been companions on the journey.
- Bless now these people as they walk and serve, that they may come to know themselves better, be drawn closer to their companions on the journey, and that through this they may know a oneness with you and all creation.
- Bless these feet that will walk the sacred earth, travelled by thousands of pilgrims before...
- Bless these boots that they may provide sure footing and cushion the body through these many days and weeks of walking...
- Bless these packs, their contents and this clothing, that they may prove adequate for both comfort and survival...
- Bless these relationships, that life-long friendships may be forged that are deeper than words.
- Bless the conversations, the service to others, the struggles and the triumphs, the pains and the joys, that in all of these things your presence may be felt.
- Bless our whole community as we uphold each other in prayer through the coming weeks until we are reunited again on Anniversary Sunday.
- In all of these things, praise by to you, life-giving, life-affirming, life-enabling God.
The preparation of hiking, learning Spanish, reading books, and talking to people who have walked the Camino has been enriching and uplifting. I am so grateful for the help of family and so many friends. I have enjoyed walking and talking with you and will carry our time together toward Compostela. Each pilgrim travels the path for her own reason. As a pilgrim, life becomes simpler and the mind becomes clearer. Body and spirit befriend each other. I go forth in trust and look forward to the unknown challenges and discoveries. Saturday, September 13, 2008
Here we are (the Camino Chicas) in our BEFORE shot! Kathy, Linda, Terese, Elizabeth, Monica, Marilyn, and Judy. We had mucho fun discussing packing tips and drinking Spanish wine.....the first of many discussions, photos, and bottles of red wine! Thanks to Elizabeth for the necklaces she made for us. We are excited to be a part of the traditional pilgrim custom of wearing a scallop shell-a sign of union with pilgrim energy.
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