Marilyn calls this place ¨Carrion of the Condors¨. We hope this is not a self-fulfilling prophecy. This morning we left by headlamps once again and it was so calm and peaceful under the stars, but mui frio! Our newly-purchased mitts from a delightful Tienda owner were much appreciated. We walked along the Canal de Castilla, which was constructed in the 1700´s for irrigation, transport, and grain milling. It was so serene with bullrushes lining the sides. I kept thinking I might discover Moses in a basket.
By lunch today, my knees were really hurting. Every day the questions are: Where will I feel pain? Where will the pain gravitate as the day wears on? Will I make it to my destination? It is amazing to me that my ankles can be hurting and 10K later, the pain will have diminished or that I can stumble into a village after 30K, barely able to put one foot in front of the other, and the next morning I will feel ready to go again. Perhaps the message is that life is never going to be without aches, pains, and troubles, but it is how we respond to these problems that makes the difference. We can choose to focus on the pain, feel it more intensely, and stop our journey OR we can slow our pace and continue on life´s journey, one foot in front of the other, until the pain moves on or diminishes.
Monica and I had a great walk with one of the Finnish film participants. In order to hear his story, I had to increase my pace and my knee got better. He had tried to do the Camino two years ago, but had to stop because of an injury. We were filmed walking with him....I think I am going to ask for a cut of the film profits. Crocodile Dundee, one of the other film participants, is presently out with the stomach flu. Oh these young studs!
We were reunited with Marilyn and Elizabeth in Villalcazar and celebrated with a bottle of vino and a picnic in the plaza. They surprised us with a special gift, purchased from the same Tienda man who sold us our mitts,....rubber boots to quiet the steel points on Judy and Therese´s trekking poles, that have annoyed all of us with their incessant clacking.
Upon our arrival this evening at our albergue, Judy led us once again in the ritual of Yoga stretches. Marilyn needs a belt, her pants now refusing to stay up with all her ´trimming and toning´. Way to go, Marilyn!
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 29K Day Twelve
Left at 6:45 this morning using our headlamps for the first time on the road. The stars were so beautiful...Compostela means ¨field of stars¨ because of the direction the Camino takes under the Milky Way. Later that morning, we came across the ruins of the impressive Gothic Conventa de San Anton. The Finnish film crew were there filming...once again we encounter each other!
The meseta stretched out before us and I felt liberated. These plains are similar to our Canadian prairies except for these unusual table-top plateaus. The plateaus have been deforested and there is a lot of erosion, but thankfully efforts are being made to reforest these areas. I enjoyed the panoramic view of the endless golden fields of wheat. The beauty of the meseta ignited my connection to the sacred. A favourite quote came back to me from the book, The Colour Purple. ¨I think God gets pissed off when you walk by the colour purple and don´t notice.¨ In essence, live in the moment and appreciate life as it confronts you.
Next.....the mother of all ascents. Before we started climbing, we prepared ourselves by stripping down to our bare essentials, drinking lots of water and taking several deep breaths. After 3K of this imposing climb, we were rewarded with a spectacular view and free refreshments for all the peregrinos/as. We found out later that four days ago a 42-year-old pilgrim had died of a heart attack on this same climb.
Once again, the heat toward the end of the day was relentless, especially with no breeze...even the windmills were silent and still. Because we were so tired, we took the first available albergue being peddled in the street. Perhaps we should have known that we would soon be encountering difficulties. The person in charge was a macho chico desperately needing an attitude adjustment. With all his puffed-up authority, he told us we would be back on the street if we didn´t close the door after entering and if we didn´t clean up our mess in the kitchen. We all loved Judy´s fast response: ¨You know you are talking to a bunch of mothers!¨ Next came the cold-water showers and the toilets that wouldn´t flush!We had to go to another albergue for a pilgrim´s meal and were surprised when we entered to be identified immediately by the server as ´Canadians´. Apparently Judy and Linda are dead ringers for Canadians. I, on the other hand, was deemed asi asi in terms of my Canadianism. We sat at the table with the Finnish crew.....would you believe it?
After walking 20K on their own, Marilyn and Elizabeth hopped on a bus in Castrojeriz at the end of the day and travelled 16K to Fromista, just one community ahead of us. They were happy to spend this time with Sylvie and Helene, our new friends from Quebec.
The meseta stretched out before us and I felt liberated. These plains are similar to our Canadian prairies except for these unusual table-top plateaus. The plateaus have been deforested and there is a lot of erosion, but thankfully efforts are being made to reforest these areas. I enjoyed the panoramic view of the endless golden fields of wheat. The beauty of the meseta ignited my connection to the sacred. A favourite quote came back to me from the book, The Colour Purple. ¨I think God gets pissed off when you walk by the colour purple and don´t notice.¨ In essence, live in the moment and appreciate life as it confronts you.
Next.....the mother of all ascents. Before we started climbing, we prepared ourselves by stripping down to our bare essentials, drinking lots of water and taking several deep breaths. After 3K of this imposing climb, we were rewarded with a spectacular view and free refreshments for all the peregrinos/as. We found out later that four days ago a 42-year-old pilgrim had died of a heart attack on this same climb.
Once again, the heat toward the end of the day was relentless, especially with no breeze...even the windmills were silent and still. Because we were so tired, we took the first available albergue being peddled in the street. Perhaps we should have known that we would soon be encountering difficulties. The person in charge was a macho chico desperately needing an attitude adjustment. With all his puffed-up authority, he told us we would be back on the street if we didn´t close the door after entering and if we didn´t clean up our mess in the kitchen. We all loved Judy´s fast response: ¨You know you are talking to a bunch of mothers!¨ Next came the cold-water showers and the toilets that wouldn´t flush!We had to go to another albergue for a pilgrim´s meal and were surprised when we entered to be identified immediately by the server as ´Canadians´. Apparently Judy and Linda are dead ringers for Canadians. I, on the other hand, was deemed asi asi in terms of my Canadianism. We sat at the table with the Finnish crew.....would you believe it?
After walking 20K on their own, Marilyn and Elizabeth hopped on a bus in Castrojeriz at the end of the day and travelled 16K to Fromista, just one community ahead of us. They were happy to spend this time with Sylvie and Helene, our new friends from Quebec.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Burgos to Hontanas 31K Day Eleven
We didn't sleep all that well last night due to the riotous party in the streets and the apprehension of starting the meseta tomorrow. Many people are taking the bus from Burgos to Leon to avoid the meseta, but NOT US! Therese, femme extrordinaire, says others avoid the meseta due to laziness!
As we were leaving the city, we stumbled across this wonderful little bakery where we bought chocolate croissants that were just out of the oven....they were heavenly. We were excited to see the storks nesting in the church belfry as we went by. Elizabeth and Kathy got a little behind the others because we ran into a local man who kept showing us "otro monumento antiguedad". Every time we would try to escape, he would say, "Un momento" and we were too polite to say no. However, I did improve my Spanish in the process. One funny moment in this exchange came when this same man stepped on the toe of his dog. For the next ten minutes, the dog growled and barked at him....as if to say, ¨How could you be such an idiot!¨ Though we were far behind at this point, we had a lot to laugh about.
After 9.6K we stopped for cafe con leche and this beautiful little humming bird lit in the flowers beside us. I immediately felt Victoria's presence. Throughout the afternoon, I continued to feel Victoria presence in the yellow and purple butterflies that kept flitting about. Yellow, the colour of happiness and intelligence, reminded me of Victoria's bubbly personality and her great intelligence. Purple, the colour of lent, reminded me of the suffering that Martha, Ed, and Matthew have had to go through since Victoria's death. Martha, when I drove to your mom and dad's place after Victoria's death, and we embraced each other, I saw pain and sorrow in its rawest form. Your journey has been long and hard and I admire the strength and courage you have shown on your Camino, the hardest one of all.
The meseta is very taxing. The heat is almost unbearable and the slow ascent seems to go on forever. It is like Mexico without the cactus! A real no man's land. After a wonderful picnic just outside Hornillos, Marilyn and Elizabeth decided their feet had had enough for one day and stayed at a wonderful albergue in this town. For the rest of us, the last 10K were gruelling. Monica and Kathy picked up speed toward the end, a case of the primal instinct...the horse smelling the barn. We could see the heat rising from the ground and were actually seeing mirages before we finally arrived. Therese and Linda arrived a bit later to great cheering from the rest of us who were enjoying our cervacas! Linda said the only way she finished was by thinking of umbrella drinks and cabana boys. We are sleeping in a large dorm where we are greatly outnumbered by men. We decided that the only way to cope with the snoring would be to drink a lot of vino for dinner. That did the trick, although Linda and Kathy did have a little trouble getting up to the top bunk!
As we were leaving the city, we stumbled across this wonderful little bakery where we bought chocolate croissants that were just out of the oven....they were heavenly. We were excited to see the storks nesting in the church belfry as we went by. Elizabeth and Kathy got a little behind the others because we ran into a local man who kept showing us "otro monumento antiguedad". Every time we would try to escape, he would say, "Un momento" and we were too polite to say no. However, I did improve my Spanish in the process. One funny moment in this exchange came when this same man stepped on the toe of his dog. For the next ten minutes, the dog growled and barked at him....as if to say, ¨How could you be such an idiot!¨ Though we were far behind at this point, we had a lot to laugh about.
After 9.6K we stopped for cafe con leche and this beautiful little humming bird lit in the flowers beside us. I immediately felt Victoria's presence. Throughout the afternoon, I continued to feel Victoria presence in the yellow and purple butterflies that kept flitting about. Yellow, the colour of happiness and intelligence, reminded me of Victoria's bubbly personality and her great intelligence. Purple, the colour of lent, reminded me of the suffering that Martha, Ed, and Matthew have had to go through since Victoria's death. Martha, when I drove to your mom and dad's place after Victoria's death, and we embraced each other, I saw pain and sorrow in its rawest form. Your journey has been long and hard and I admire the strength and courage you have shown on your Camino, the hardest one of all.
The meseta is very taxing. The heat is almost unbearable and the slow ascent seems to go on forever. It is like Mexico without the cactus! A real no man's land. After a wonderful picnic just outside Hornillos, Marilyn and Elizabeth decided their feet had had enough for one day and stayed at a wonderful albergue in this town. For the rest of us, the last 10K were gruelling. Monica and Kathy picked up speed toward the end, a case of the primal instinct...the horse smelling the barn. We could see the heat rising from the ground and were actually seeing mirages before we finally arrived. Therese and Linda arrived a bit later to great cheering from the rest of us who were enjoying our cervacas! Linda said the only way she finished was by thinking of umbrella drinks and cabana boys. We are sleeping in a large dorm where we are greatly outnumbered by men. We decided that the only way to cope with the snoring would be to drink a lot of vino for dinner. That did the trick, although Linda and Kathy did have a little trouble getting up to the top bunk!
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Ages to Burgos 24K Day Ten
No big thoughts today except, ¨What the hell was I thinking?¨ Last night when we finally arrived at the Aubergue, I was fevered, sick and could only manage a geriatric shuffle where I didn´t have to lift my feet. I´m considering trading in my hiking poles for a walker. I thought I would have a shower to warm up, only to find that the water was absolutely frigid! Linda was our team angel and did our wash and dispensed drugs from her farmacia as needed. When it was time for the pilgrim meal, I had to wear my infamous orange silk pajamas, which I might add are keeping me from getting bed bug bites, as I had put all my clothes into the wash and I was too delirious to care. The aubergue was so full that Therese, Elizabeth and I had to eat at a bench facing a wall. I have now taken a full bottle of Cold FX, numerous Tylenol, and Elizabeth's homeopathic remedy that she squirts in my water....I hope it works because it tastes wretched!
We are now in Burgos and have enjoyed a sunny afternoon in the plaza chilling in chairs with cervezas. This event was followed by a musical tour of the city in a questionable vehicle, that gave off the odour of a motor overheating as it climbed the steep hill to a castle. We enjoyed the cathedral, the 13th century walls and statues, and Linda's wonderful sense of humour. Tonight was topped off by a descent into a marvelous tapas bar, where we drove the server 'loco' trying to taste every delectable dish before us.
We are now in Burgos and have enjoyed a sunny afternoon in the plaza chilling in chairs with cervezas. This event was followed by a musical tour of the city in a questionable vehicle, that gave off the odour of a motor overheating as it climbed the steep hill to a castle. We enjoyed the cathedral, the 13th century walls and statues, and Linda's wonderful sense of humour. Tonight was topped off by a descent into a marvelous tapas bar, where we drove the server 'loco' trying to taste every delectable dish before us.
Belorado to Ages 27.5K Day Nine
When I woke up this morning, I thought about how I have never felt so emotionally and physically spent in my life. There is so much love and concern from total strangers that I have a hard time taking it all in. In Canada we exercise our bodies, but do we exercise our emotional and spiritual bodies? I thought back to the time when Geoff was a toddler and he had just finished a very busy day at the cottage....fishing, swimming, playing in the woods, and building campfires. When Ted and I were tucking him in that night, Geoff uttered this sigh that I have never forgotten. I now recognize that sigh as a melding of body and soul and a total living in the moment. Geoff taught me lessons as a very young child and he continues to teach and astound me. Hats off to you Geoff for being someone who totally lives in the now. Sometimes I wonder why I was chosen to be your mother when you teach me so much.
As we were leaving the village, the church bells were sounding out the hour and I thought, ¨For whom doth the bell toll?¨ which reminded me of teaching and of course all those wonderful teachers at Keatsway. Ann, thanks for the angel and I carry her on my knapsack. I also have the Keatsway clip and the class hug paper that my students gave me. How is that Little-Shortt class doing? Jason, I have been like a little kid today picking rocks, trying to find the perfect one to bring back to you.
The sense of community on the Camino is so strong and I thought about the TRIBES program Keatsway is implementing. The sharing of self through the inclusive activities, mutual respect for others, attentive listening....reaching at last to a classroom and school community. That is the CAMINO. How sad that as teachers we have become so concerned with curriculum that we have forgotten how important it is to help kids develop the social skills they need to find happiness in life. Personally I think the demise all started with Mike Harris! lol
As we were leaving the village, the church bells were sounding out the hour and I thought, ¨For whom doth the bell toll?¨ which reminded me of teaching and of course all those wonderful teachers at Keatsway. Ann, thanks for the angel and I carry her on my knapsack. I also have the Keatsway clip and the class hug paper that my students gave me. How is that Little-Shortt class doing? Jason, I have been like a little kid today picking rocks, trying to find the perfect one to bring back to you.
The sense of community on the Camino is so strong and I thought about the TRIBES program Keatsway is implementing. The sharing of self through the inclusive activities, mutual respect for others, attentive listening....reaching at last to a classroom and school community. That is the CAMINO. How sad that as teachers we have become so concerned with curriculum that we have forgotten how important it is to help kids develop the social skills they need to find happiness in life. Personally I think the demise all started with Mike Harris! lol
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Santo Domingo to Belorado 23.5 K Day Eight
Left about 7:30 and saw the most beautiful sunrise. As we entered the region of Castilla y Leon, the trail wound through valleys surrounded by hills and high tablelands. This was agricultural land and I was reminded of the bounty of Mother Earth, our life-giver, and decided that today I would honour my mother, my life-giver. We passed many workers out gathering potatoes and I remembered how potatoes were a staple of our diet on the farm. Mom, you loving prepared those potatoes in so many ways and we had so many great times around that farm table. Mom, there is no one more loving and giving than you. I admire your determination to seek what you want from life and I thank you for passing your desire for adventure on to me. Because of your generation and situation in life, you are not able to walk the Camino. Mom, I carry you in my blood and I walk the Camino for you. My strength cometh from Gaia, Mother Earth, from whom all things come. I walk in praise of my mother and all mothers, our life-givers.
Monica and Marilyn picked out a great Aubergue and it was hosted by Agnes and Peter who are the Camino personified. They have already walked the Camino from their house in Switzerland and are now walking back from Santiago. They are in their seventies and they welcomed us with open arms. The aubergue is attached to the village church and it was previously a theatre. The stage is now a kitchen and when Agnes explained that it was still a stage for preparing the theatre of food, everyone decided that we would prepare a community meal. Martin from Switzerland made Swiss Alps Pasta which included potatoes from the garden. As Agnes says, ¨La vie est dur sans confiture; elle est amere sans pommes de terre.¨ What a fabulous time we had preparing food, eating together at the long communal table, toasting with vino, and doing dishes. We then rushed out for the community mass and I really enjoyed sharing the peace with everyone. After mass, the priest took us to a side chapel where he delivered the Pilgrims´ Blessing. This church has been blessing pilgrims since the 800s. The blessing was read in French, Italian, German, Spanish, and English. I was selected to be the English reader and I felt honoured to be a part of such history. We ended this experience with a hymn that Judy brought for such an occasion. As the song came to an end, we heard the ethereal voice of Camino Peter singing a familiar ´hallejah chant´. We sang our way out of the church and into our beds next door, both physically and emotionally spent.
Monica and Marilyn picked out a great Aubergue and it was hosted by Agnes and Peter who are the Camino personified. They have already walked the Camino from their house in Switzerland and are now walking back from Santiago. They are in their seventies and they welcomed us with open arms. The aubergue is attached to the village church and it was previously a theatre. The stage is now a kitchen and when Agnes explained that it was still a stage for preparing the theatre of food, everyone decided that we would prepare a community meal. Martin from Switzerland made Swiss Alps Pasta which included potatoes from the garden. As Agnes says, ¨La vie est dur sans confiture; elle est amere sans pommes de terre.¨ What a fabulous time we had preparing food, eating together at the long communal table, toasting with vino, and doing dishes. We then rushed out for the community mass and I really enjoyed sharing the peace with everyone. After mass, the priest took us to a side chapel where he delivered the Pilgrims´ Blessing. This church has been blessing pilgrims since the 800s. The blessing was read in French, Italian, German, Spanish, and English. I was selected to be the English reader and I felt honoured to be a part of such history. We ended this experience with a hymn that Judy brought for such an occasion. As the song came to an end, we heard the ethereal voice of Camino Peter singing a familiar ´hallejah chant´. We sang our way out of the church and into our beds next door, both physically and emotionally spent.
Ventosa to Santo Domingo 31K Day Seven
The pilgrim alters today were pillars and as I stood in front of that first piller of rock, with a goal of 31K in front of me, I knew that this day belonged to Ted. Ted, you are such a pillar of strength, stability, and love for me and our family. You plan, you dream, and you set goals. I am blessed to be at your side. I admire your amazing ability to manage me and our relationship. You keep me grounded, but you allow me to fly without ever trying to clip my wings. Thank you for letting me soar and thank you for keeping my feet firmly planted on the trail.
Left at 7:06 this morning and trekked 10K for our cafe con leche. It was soooo good. Judy and I even treated ourselves to chocolate-filled croissants.....we figured we could handle the calories on a 31K hike!
Stopped in the next town to pick up some lunch items and hiked another hour before stopping for our picnic in a farmer´s freshly-harvested field. What a great picnic we had of pate, bread, cheese, chocolate and apples. We only had 13K to go, but the sun was hot and we were getting tired. Today I welcomed the ascents as my shin splints didn´t hurt when I was going uphill. Onward we trudged and when Monica and I crested the hill to see Santo Domingo, we joined hands and jumped for joy. However the descent was long. Terese and Elizabeth experienced the same joy an hour later as they brought up the rear. By the time they arrived at the edge of the city, the two of them were in hysterics. Their walking sticks had become canes and they were limping like ¨two crippled gereatrics trying to make it to the nursing home singsong¨(their words). The first refugio was filled to capacity, but luckily the second one had room. I slept in a room with 36 pilgrims, on a top bunk which as usual had no railing on either side, and I slept like a baby. I have never felt so physically exhausted in all my life and that combined with the laughter and comraderie of the pilgrim meal was a wonderful feeling. We have left many of our pilgrim community behind and are gathering others into our fold. Silvie from Quebec has joined us as well as another French group from France. I so love speaking French to so many people. Martin from Germany has been a delight.
Left at 7:06 this morning and trekked 10K for our cafe con leche. It was soooo good. Judy and I even treated ourselves to chocolate-filled croissants.....we figured we could handle the calories on a 31K hike!
Stopped in the next town to pick up some lunch items and hiked another hour before stopping for our picnic in a farmer´s freshly-harvested field. What a great picnic we had of pate, bread, cheese, chocolate and apples. We only had 13K to go, but the sun was hot and we were getting tired. Today I welcomed the ascents as my shin splints didn´t hurt when I was going uphill. Onward we trudged and when Monica and I crested the hill to see Santo Domingo, we joined hands and jumped for joy. However the descent was long. Terese and Elizabeth experienced the same joy an hour later as they brought up the rear. By the time they arrived at the edge of the city, the two of them were in hysterics. Their walking sticks had become canes and they were limping like ¨two crippled gereatrics trying to make it to the nursing home singsong¨(their words). The first refugio was filled to capacity, but luckily the second one had room. I slept in a room with 36 pilgrims, on a top bunk which as usual had no railing on either side, and I slept like a baby. I have never felt so physically exhausted in all my life and that combined with the laughter and comraderie of the pilgrim meal was a wonderful feeling. We have left many of our pilgrim community behind and are gathering others into our fold. Silvie from Quebec has joined us as well as another French group from France. I so love speaking French to so many people. Martin from Germany has been a delight.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Logrono to Ventosa 20K Day Six
While following the Camino trail today, we came upon a wire fence lining the path. This fence was covered with crosses that pilgrims had created out of sticks, grape vine, and grasses. At some points you could barely see the wire fence for crosses. The mural of crosses went on for over a kilometer and I was brought to tears. My mantra everyday had been, ¨My body is a temple¨ and I had repeated this mantra at every pilgrim alter along the Camino. I had felt that my strength for the Camino would come from within myself and that if I took care of my body, I would eventually arrive in Santiago. However, last night I was humbled by the numbers of young, athletic people injured, sick, and barely hanging on at this early stage of the Camino.
While walking along the trail of crosses, I felt the first melding of body and soul. I realized that as my body accumulated the mileage of the pilgimage, my strength was not going to just come from my body and my strength of will. As I walked that trail of crosses, I could feel an energy coming from the ancient earth under my feet and I could feel the presence of the millions of pilgrims who had walked the path before me. I could feel their stength and the strength of the fraternity of pilgrims walking the path with me right now. The crosses on that wire fence symbolized, for me, hope for the future, faith in a greater being, and love for our fellow human beings (past, present, and future)and I struck a new rhythm of walking. One does not walk the Camino, the Camino walks you.
We are pilgrims on a journey,
Fellow travellers on the road,
We are here to help each other,
Walk the mile and share the load.
While walking along the trail of crosses, I felt the first melding of body and soul. I realized that as my body accumulated the mileage of the pilgimage, my strength was not going to just come from my body and my strength of will. As I walked that trail of crosses, I could feel an energy coming from the ancient earth under my feet and I could feel the presence of the millions of pilgrims who had walked the path before me. I could feel their stength and the strength of the fraternity of pilgrims walking the path with me right now. The crosses on that wire fence symbolized, for me, hope for the future, faith in a greater being, and love for our fellow human beings (past, present, and future)and I struck a new rhythm of walking. One does not walk the Camino, the Camino walks you.
We are pilgrims on a journey,
Fellow travellers on the road,
We are here to help each other,
Walk the mile and share the load.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Torros del Rio to Logrono 20K Day Five
We left shortly after 7:30 with muffins and oranges to fortify the Camino Chicas! For the first hour we walked in silence. It was so peaceful and relaxing - the sleepy countryside, the sound of the hiking poles tapp¡ng out the rhythm of each individual hiker and the sound our footsteps plodding onwards towards Santiago. The descent today was called Barranco Mataburras (Donkey Killing Ditch) and it lived up to its name! On the ascent we were surprised by the presence of a Finnnish film crew who were creating a documentary on the Camino. I guess we are movie stars now and hope to make the preview in Finland in January. lol
Finally arrived in Vianna for our morning cafe con leche, where the locals were the servers priorities! Got our pilgrim passports stamped at Iglesia Santa Maria de Vianna. The temperature has changed and we had fun bringing out parts of our trekking wardrobe formerly unused. Many of our international trail friends enjoyed the atmosphere with us in this pictoresque town. We are happy to report that the image of Canadians as ¨boring¨ has been successfully overturned!!
Later that afternoon, Elizabeth threw the first Camino Chica Conniption when lunch was ignored by those in the lead. Madly marching up the steep ascent to the front line, she called everyone to an abrupt halt under an almond tree. Enjoyed crackers with salmon pate, yogurt, chocolate wafers, and more chocolate. (Everyone is now happily back on track.)
Much like Jesus entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, we entered the thriving metropolis of Logrono to the sound of Spanish marching bands playing in the streets. Much to our pleasure, we had stumbled into the midst of a local wine festival YEAH! Later this evening, when the Spanish were just getting started, we joined the throngs of happy families enjoying street entertainers. Dinner tonight consisted of tapas and vino and the chicas had to drag Elizabeth and Kathy home to bed to get ready for tomorrow´s Camino walk where the terrain is going to be extra challenging. Buenas nochas mis amigos!!
Finally arrived in Vianna for our morning cafe con leche, where the locals were the servers priorities! Got our pilgrim passports stamped at Iglesia Santa Maria de Vianna. The temperature has changed and we had fun bringing out parts of our trekking wardrobe formerly unused. Many of our international trail friends enjoyed the atmosphere with us in this pictoresque town. We are happy to report that the image of Canadians as ¨boring¨ has been successfully overturned!!
Later that afternoon, Elizabeth threw the first Camino Chica Conniption when lunch was ignored by those in the lead. Madly marching up the steep ascent to the front line, she called everyone to an abrupt halt under an almond tree. Enjoyed crackers with salmon pate, yogurt, chocolate wafers, and more chocolate. (Everyone is now happily back on track.)
Much like Jesus entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, we entered the thriving metropolis of Logrono to the sound of Spanish marching bands playing in the streets. Much to our pleasure, we had stumbled into the midst of a local wine festival YEAH! Later this evening, when the Spanish were just getting started, we joined the throngs of happy families enjoying street entertainers. Dinner tonight consisted of tapas and vino and the chicas had to drag Elizabeth and Kathy home to bed to get ready for tomorrow´s Camino walk where the terrain is going to be extra challenging. Buenas nochas mis amigos!!
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Montjardin to Torres del Rios 20 K Day Four
The lights went on at 6:30 a.m. for everyone. After bathrooms and breakfast provided, we were ready to come down off our mountain at 7:40. The sun peeked over the mountains and illuminated the fields with gold. Elizabeth and Terese, our oldest members. led the way for the first time. By lunchtime, we reached Los Arcos, a magical city. Doors were ancient and it was fun to peek into places on small Spanish lanes. We found a tiny store with officious woman who allowed no ´touchy-feely´ with the fuit. We all bought sardines and apples for lunch which we later shared together under an olive tree.
Rose, a US national rugby team player, is now part of our pilgrim community. She has injured her acquilles tendon and is humbled by the physical challenge that the Camino offers. See Geoff the Rugby players aren´t the be all and the end all!
Came at last, in over 90 degree temperatures, to what we thought was our final destination.....but it wasn´t. We progressed down a big hill to a second town with another big hill to climb to Torres del Rios, and the Albergue called Casa Mari. Collapsed with our legs against the wall in a semi-stretching on rooftop mode. Afterwhich we enjoyed a homecooked meal from supplies purchased at a small tienda de comestibles.
Rose, a US national rugby team player, is now part of our pilgrim community. She has injured her acquilles tendon and is humbled by the physical challenge that the Camino offers. See Geoff the Rugby players aren´t the be all and the end all!
Came at last, in over 90 degree temperatures, to what we thought was our final destination.....but it wasn´t. We progressed down a big hill to a second town with another big hill to climb to Torres del Rios, and the Albergue called Casa Mari. Collapsed with our legs against the wall in a semi-stretching on rooftop mode. Afterwhich we enjoyed a homecooked meal from supplies purchased at a small tienda de comestibles.
Lorca to Monjardin 16K Day Three
Today we celebrated Monica´s birthday and we decided there was no better way to celebrate. We picniced under olive trees and toasted with many pilgrims from many countries at our pilgrim dinner.
Part of our group slept in today and had to really hurry to get out. We made it in 40 minutes which is much faster than yesterday. I am amazed at how long it takes to pack a knapsack in the morning. The cafe con leche is amazing here (I think that is because I have to walk over an hour to get it in the morning.) Today we had breakfast in Estella. Soon after Estella we stumbled upon a public fountain of not just water but wine. This fountain was established by a local wine family and they provide wine for all the pilgrims. Elizabeth led us in a communion service along with people from Switzerland, Spain, New Zealand, United States and France. We filled our water jugs with wine and continued on our way.
We were nervous about reaching our destination for this evening because of the steep ascent and the limited sleeping accommodations available. With the next auberge located another 16 K away it was essential that we find a place to sleep. All the other pilgrims were trying to get there ahead of the group of 7 Canadians!!
We did make it and found a room which had 13 mattresses on the floor and were very grateful for a place to sleep. I am so glad I brought earplugs!! Tom the refugios were exactly what I thought OH LA LA!
Ann from the US gave me a counselling session on simplicity and purging my knapsack. Apparently I have the heaviest bag and have to learn to let go. However the fear of getting sick and having injuries is too great for me to give up my meds. However I did purge some items and gave them as a gift to the Refugio. Haven´t parted with my mascara yet though!!
I will post pictures when I get to a computer with a USB port.
Part of our group slept in today and had to really hurry to get out. We made it in 40 minutes which is much faster than yesterday. I am amazed at how long it takes to pack a knapsack in the morning. The cafe con leche is amazing here (I think that is because I have to walk over an hour to get it in the morning.) Today we had breakfast in Estella. Soon after Estella we stumbled upon a public fountain of not just water but wine. This fountain was established by a local wine family and they provide wine for all the pilgrims. Elizabeth led us in a communion service along with people from Switzerland, Spain, New Zealand, United States and France. We filled our water jugs with wine and continued on our way.
We were nervous about reaching our destination for this evening because of the steep ascent and the limited sleeping accommodations available. With the next auberge located another 16 K away it was essential that we find a place to sleep. All the other pilgrims were trying to get there ahead of the group of 7 Canadians!!
We did make it and found a room which had 13 mattresses on the floor and were very grateful for a place to sleep. I am so glad I brought earplugs!! Tom the refugios were exactly what I thought OH LA LA!
Ann from the US gave me a counselling session on simplicity and purging my knapsack. Apparently I have the heaviest bag and have to learn to let go. However the fear of getting sick and having injuries is too great for me to give up my meds. However I did purge some items and gave them as a gift to the Refugio. Haven´t parted with my mascara yet though!!
I will post pictures when I get to a computer with a USB port.
Utega to Lorca 23 K Day Two
The countryside countinues to be absolutely breathtaking. Today we walked through tranquil hill towns, vineyard after vineyard, and fields of wheat and fruit trees. We ate blackberries along the side of the road and enjoyed the 2000 year old Roman road and bridge that we came across. The terrain continues to be very steep and challenging and we did not get as far as we wanted today. Along the Camino there are little prayer altars where pilgrims deposit stones and I stop at each one to gain strength....One foot in front of the other. That works along with the beer and wine! I am enjoying the comraderie of our group as well as the comraderie of the other pilgrims. Each night we partake of a pilgrim meal which is prepared at the Auberge. We all eat at one big table and have so much fun.
Pamplona to Utergia (17K) Day One
Well our group got separated from each other before we even got started on the Camino. However there was great rejoicing when we came together on the trail! The countryside is beautiful - fields of wheat and sunflowers with windmills spinning. The terrain is much more rugged than I had imagined and there was a very pronounced ascent today which was a challenge for all of us. However at the top there was an iron sculpture depicting medieval pilgrims. We welcomed the refreshing breeze and the sprinkling of rain on the descent was most welcome.
Mark and Miriam - a big thank you for the poles. I would have been lying turtle in a ditch somewhere without them. We have established a community of pilgrims that are walking at the same pace and we eat and sleep together. We also help and look out for each other which is so great. I am speaking lots of French and a little Spanish. I have a blister the size of Mount Everest, but am walking through it. It is a small problem compared to a lot of others on the Camino. The temperature is very hot and we try to start our walks early in the morning.
Mark and Miriam - a big thank you for the poles. I would have been lying turtle in a ditch somewhere without them. We have established a community of pilgrims that are walking at the same pace and we eat and sleep together. We also help and look out for each other which is so great. I am speaking lots of French and a little Spanish. I have a blister the size of Mount Everest, but am walking through it. It is a small problem compared to a lot of others on the Camino. The temperature is very hot and we try to start our walks early in the morning.
Blisters!
Have been a little lax about posting on the blog because I have been nursing my blisters with beer and wine! This Camino is not a WALK IN THE PARK!! Our flight to Madrid was very smooth and we even had time to tour Madrid with a Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour. Reminded me of our New York trip Alyssa, Annabel, and Sara. In fact I was very tempted to see if I could do a Hop Off Hop On tour of the Camino. lol We later took the train to Pamplona and had a lot of fun touring that town. Had tapas and beer and toured all the wonderful little streets including the Running of the Bulls Street. After four hours of walking, we finally called it a night.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Parkminster Blessing
1Life-giving God, we give you praise for the desire for a deeper relationship that you have placed in each one of these individuals...- We thank you for the vision that has inspired these journeys...
- We praise you for families and friends that have worked to make these things possible...and for all of those who have been companions on the journey.
- Bless now these people as they walk and serve, that they may come to know themselves better, be drawn closer to their companions on the journey, and that through this they may know a oneness with you and all creation.
- Bless these feet that will walk the sacred earth, travelled by thousands of pilgrims before...
- Bless these boots that they may provide sure footing and cushion the body through these many days and weeks of walking...
- Bless these packs, their contents and this clothing, that they may prove adequate for both comfort and survival...
- Bless these relationships, that life-long friendships may be forged that are deeper than words.
- Bless the conversations, the service to others, the struggles and the triumphs, the pains and the joys, that in all of these things your presence may be felt.
- Bless our whole community as we uphold each other in prayer through the coming weeks until we are reunited again on Anniversary Sunday.
- In all of these things, praise by to you, life-giving, life-affirming, life-enabling God.
The preparation of hiking, learning Spanish, reading books, and talking to people who have walked the Camino has been enriching and uplifting. I am so grateful for the help of family and so many friends. I have enjoyed walking and talking with you and will carry our time together toward Compostela. Each pilgrim travels the path for her own reason. As a pilgrim, life becomes simpler and the mind becomes clearer. Body and spirit befriend each other. I go forth in trust and look forward to the unknown challenges and discoveries. Saturday, September 13, 2008
Here we are (the Camino Chicas) in our BEFORE shot! Kathy, Linda, Terese, Elizabeth, Monica, Marilyn, and Judy. We had mucho fun discussing packing tips and drinking Spanish wine.....the first of many discussions, photos, and bottles of red wine! Thanks to Elizabeth for the necklaces she made for us. We are excited to be a part of the traditional pilgrim custom of wearing a scallop shell-a sign of union with pilgrim energy.
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